The sweet wines of the Layon and Bonnezeaux in Anjou and Vouvray in Touraine tend to bask in such little limelight as sweet Loire Chenin Blanc attracts. Not without good reason because the leading producers make world class, long-lived wines that sould be as revered as top Sauternes. More modest Loire appellations like Coteaux de l’Aubance also merit greater attention and often represent great value for such toothsomely refined sweeties. Here’s my pick of the bunch from the annual pre-Salon tasting of latest release wines, all from the 2008 vintage.
Domaine Richou Les Violettes Coteaux de l’Aubance 2008 – some sweet cookie dough on the nose but nice freshness and life on the palate, with apricot fruit, close to the stone.
Caves de la Loire Prestige Terriades Coteaux de l’Aubance 2008 – fresh and fleshy with silky, ripe white orchard fruits. Good.
Domaine Dittière Les Boujets Coteaux de l’Aubance 2008 – only 10hl/ha and it shows. A very honeyed, delicate yet intense peachy palate, with lovely persistent acidity extending the finish. Long and mineral. Very good.
Château Princé Coteaux de l’Aubance 2008 – more girth, with waxy ripe apricot fruit and well balanced acidity.
Domaine de Bois Mozé Coteaux de l’Aubance 2008 – good depth of flavour here, with pithy citrus and physalis flavours balancing the sweetness. Well done.
Domaine de Bablut Grandpierre Coteaux de l’Aubance 2008 – exceptionally low yields (6hl/ha) once again account for an intense wine, with concentrated, waxy apricot and complex camomile, saffron and buttercup notes. Retains good balancing freshness/poise. Very good (as was the 2005 vintage which I’d tasted at the La Renaissance des Appellations tasting earlier that day).
Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
(Tasted 31 January 2010)
