Anjou-Villages Brissac, some 100ha to the south of Angers, produces Anjou’s most structured, long-lived red wines, made from Cabernet Franc and/or Cabernet Sauvignon. Predominantly schist soils account for big-boned tannins and last year’s tasting of the more difficult 2006 vintage was very hard on the gums. In comparison, 2008 was a walk in the park – a mild summer followed by a dry, sunny September made for long hang times and healthy ripe grapes. With one stalky exception (Domaine de Fonteny, which was cropped at the highest yields – 50hl/ha) these were, in the main, aromatic and elegant wines, with well-defined red fruits and refined tannins. Here are my highlights.
Domaine de Montgilet Anjou-Villages Brissac 2008 – attractively dusty, mineral nose with crunchy, well-defined red fruits on the palate. Refined tannins and a touch of lead pencil add finesse.
Domaine Dittière Clos de la Grouas Anjou-Villages Brissac 2008 – spicy with some clove on nose and palate – sometimes an indicator of unripeness, but not so here. Though powerful, the tannins are ripe, fleshed out by bright black and red fruits.
Domaine des Giraudières Château Gaillard Anjou-Villages Brissac 2008 – fleshy, sanguine plum/damson fruit, this is long, elegant and persistent, with an edge of coal dust.
Domaine Conquessac Cuvée Isabelle Anjou-Villages Brissac 2008 – a spicy, clove-edged wine, these darker elements balanced by well-defined, concentrated red and black fruits, supported by firm tannins.
Domaine des Deux Moulins Le Clos au Chat Anjou-Villages Brissac 2008 – Cabernet Sauvignon makes its presence known with a good intensity of coal dust edged blackcurrant fruit, this is tightly structured with firm but ripe tannins.
Domaine Richou Anjou-Villages Brissac 2008 – relatively unreconstructed with big, clove-edged velcro tannins, but there’s a great depth of shiny black fruits to be mined. One to cellar for 5 years +
Domaine de Bablut Rocca Nigra Anjou-Villages Brissac 2008 – 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, cropped at a measly 20hl/ha. Very dark and inky with chiselled minerals – a sense of vertical schist to this. An intense wine with a savoury undertow. Impressive but needs time.
Domaine de Haute Perche Anjou-Villages Brissac 2008 – my pick of the bunch, with animated, well-defined red and black fruits supported by firm but ripe tannins, nice persistence and underlying minerality. Very good.
Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
(Tasted 31 January 2010)
