Wine merchants Richards Walford have a classy portfolio of Loire wines – here are my tasting notes of a recent tasting of some of them.
Domaine Huet – 2004 vintage
Rains in September and October affected late ripening Chenin Blanc and Vouvray suffered. Despite green harvesting, Huet only produced dry and sparkling wines in 2004 and the wines are not his finest although they are perfectly correct and charming.
Le Haut Lieu 2004 – approachable, fruity style with apple and quince – lacks concentration compared with previous vintages.
Le Mont 2004 – more concentrated and the better for it, rounder and honeyed with good depth on the mid-palate, a trace of bitterness on the finish.
Le Clos de Bourg 2004 - my favourite of the three and much closer to the usual form – lively, vivacious wine delicate yet intense with honey and quince flavours, nice clean, fresh finish.
A friend brought around a bottle of Domaine Huet Le Haut Lieu Demi Sec 2002: 2002 is quite simply my favourite Loire vintage because it highlights Chenin Blanc’s trump card: its combination of good sugar levels/ripeness and refreshing acidity when the vintage conditions are right. When the winemaker achieves the perfect balance between these natural ingredients, the wines are sublime and this is no exception: fabulously lively and fresh with lipsmackingly tangy orchard fruits (Coxes Orange Pippens/pears/quince), long, persistent finish. Contact Le Pont de la Tour wine shop – 020 7940 1840
Domaine Frédéric Mabileau, Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil
Very modern, fruity reds (Cabernet Franc & Cabernet Sauvignon)
Anjou Cabernet Sauvignon 2003/4 – no oak whatsoever, so my tasting notes references to pencil shavings are either my association with the grapes or a varietal characteristic. Unsurprisingly, the 2003 (100% cab sav) is loaded with blackberry and currant fruit, whilst the 2004 (40% cab franc, 60% cab sav) is more aromatic, showing an inky nose, more freshness and a tighter structure.
St Nicolas de Bourgueil ‘Les Rouillères 2003/4 – more depth and grip than the Anjou wines, once again the 03 showing greater concentration of fruit and the 04 in a classic mold with an attractively stalky nose.
Domaine de la Belliviere, Eric & Christine Nicolas
The 2002 wines easily outperformed the 2001 vintage – the whites are 100% Chenin and the reds gave me my first taste of the Pineau d’Aunis grape variety.
Coteaux du Loir Blanc L’Effraie 2002 – quince and physalis, intense with well balanced acidity; broader mouthfeel than the Jasnières Les Rosiers, but classic fresh finish - £16.50 The Wine Society
Coteaux du Loir Blanc Veilles Vignes Eparses 2002 - older vines take the concentration levels up a notch or two – great breadth of palate with ripe, honeyed quince, orchard fruits and peach/apricot kernal, lovely acidity – ageworthy.
Coteaux du Loir Blanc Haut Rasné 2002 – this single vineyard, rich, partially botrytised, medium sweet wine shows many layers: wet wool, minerals, quince and almond paste; lively acidity keeps it focused – lots of scope for ageing.
Coteaux du Loir Rouge Rouge-Gorge 2002 – it transpires that Pineau d’Aunis wines are very dry and savoury – pale, salmon pink with a spicy nose loaded with white pepper which follows through on the light bodied but intensely savoury, dry palate nuanced with stalky, red berry fruits. I reckon this would work well with charcuterie, salmon and grilled prawns/shrimps – it’s definitely a food wine.
Coteaux du Loir Rouge Hommage à Louis Derré 2002 – this comes from century old vines and was an exceptionally tight and concentrated version of the baby wine, but with a rasp (or two) of tannic austerity – I’d love to try this in five years time.
Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
April 2005
