Recent tastings of Anjou-Villages and Anjou-Villages Brissac at the Cabernet Franc Ambassador Tasting and Chateau Brissac (see my reports here and here) have impressed with ripe fruit and markedly ripe but present tannins. And if yet further proof of the pudding was required, a tasting in London with Jean-Hubert Lebreton, the 5th generation of his family to run this 58ha domaine, got a big thumbs up too. Not least since it focused on a vertical of the harder to ripen Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated flagship, La Croix de la Mission. Rochelles is one of the region’s leading lights and Lebreton was candid about the improvements in later vintages which he says reflect the fruits of greater labour in the vineyard. Together with vintage conditions, this explains why the 2004 and later vintages showed better concentration and tannin/fruit balance.
La Croix de la Mission vertical
La Croix de la Mission 2008 (90% Cabernet Sauvignon/10% Cabernet Franc) – a subtle fresh stalky/bell pepper note to the nose, in this case youthful and attractive because one senses there’s plenty of concentrated fruit lurking behind. In the mouth, fine tannins are seamlessly integrated with fleshy plum, blackberry and currant fruit. Long and well balanced with a lovely freshness. Very good, with at least a decade of charming life ahead of it.
La Croix de la Mission 2006 – solid, strapping tannins were much in evidence at a generic tasting of Anjou-Villages Brissac at last year’s Salon and sure enough, the tannins are much more assertive than the 2008. This is a very classic vintage that needs time. The fruit is there – fresh and dark berry and currant and there’s more than a glint of minerality. It just needs 2-3 years for the tannins to mellow and unclasp the fruit. Great potential. 13.5%abv
La Croix de la Mission 2005 – a ripe year with much more sucrosity on the nose and palate and yep, the fruit is ripe, rounder and much more present and powerful. It’s a tad warm (14%abv), though that’s perhaps in contrast to th cool minerality of the 06. Would muck along very nicely with a hunk of protein or hearty stew. Good.
La Croix de la Mission 2004 – a lovely, elegant wine still quite tight, but with fine powdery tannins and dark, dark lead-pencil-edged fruit. Long, mineral finish with some tertiary, savoury, spicy hints. Very good and, though drinking well now, should maintain its upwards trajectory for another 5 years plus. 14%
La Croix de la Mission 2002 – much more developed on the nose, with smoky, gamy notes. In the mouth it’s more primary/fruity than the nose would suggest, with inky, plummy fruit. Though enjoyable now, it’s just a bit dilute on the finish so not one to cellar. 13%
La Croix de la Mission 2001 – spicy on the nose with a touch of capsicum, this lacks concentration on the palate which is a little stalky and green, lending it a predominantly spicy character. 12.5%. Breton agrees 2004 onwards benefit from greater rigor in the vineyard.
New releases
Chenin Blanc
Anjou Blanc Roche des Rochelles 2008 – good schistous vigor to this Chenin Blanc, which shows physalis, orange peel and grapefruit in the mouth. Powerful and dry with honey hints it’s got great regional typicity and, for me, it’s a good example of why Chenin is a red wine drinkers white. Very good.
Coteaux de L’Aubance “Ambre” 2007 – picked in several tries (sorties into the vineyard), this sweetie with rich and honeyed singed apricot and white peach fruit is well-balanced by fresh, mineral acidity. Good.
Cabernet Franc
Anjou Rouge L’Ardoise 2009 – the flip side of Plus La Croix de la Mission, this has 90% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Breton tells me in this junior cuvee he’s looking for fruit not tannin and it’s an upfront out and out charmer! A lovely floral nose leads onto a palate with well-defined red and black berry and currant fruit, complexed with minerally coal dust, violet top notes and sweetly spiced pencil shavings. Great regional typicity with lots of finesse.
Anjou-Villages Brissac 2008 – 80% Cabernet Franc/20% Cabernet Sauvignon – as you’d expect given appellation and a notch more Cab Sav this is darker, spicier and more structured than L’Ardoise. Though sinewy the tannins are ripe and this has a real gunflint, smoky character to its minerality. Very good mid-term keeper; best to wait a couple of years before broaching.
Anjou-Villages Brissac Millerits 2008 – 100% Cabernet Sauvignon planted in friable red schist and quartz soils, this is aged 12 months in wood to round out the palate and soften the tannins. Though the oak stands out on the nose in the mouth it shows a powerful concentration of fruit. An impressive wine with a delightful freshness and vitality. Fine tannins carry a very long, inky, persistent finish. Very good indeed.
UK stockists of Domaine des Rochelles wines include Loire specialist restaurant and retailer RSJ, Haynes Hanson Clark, Tanners and The Wine Society. Expect to pay around £10 for the Anjou Villages Brissac and just a few quid more for the Plus La Croix de la Mission.
Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
(Wines tasted 3rd March 2010)
