Domaine des Baumard is run by Florent Baumard who presented this tasting of Chenin Blanc wines from the Loire together with a Verdelho (a Madeira grape) which apparently has a history in the Loire and may even have snuck into the odd Chenin!!!!
Florent had more than one surprise up his sleeve – he is a firm believer in screwcap. Last year he bottled 2/3 of his production under stelvin – I applaud him and, given the freshness and purity of his wines, can well understand his decision.
The wines are available through Jeroboams Wine Shops and I suspect you’ll find some at Le Pont de La Tour wine shop, Shad Thames, London or on the wine list at Conran restaurants (the tasting was at The Orrery):
Dry wines
Sparkling NV Carte Turquoise Blanc, Cremant de Loire – good mousse with hazelnut, grapefruit and spicy aniseed; lovely and fresh but weighty too.
2001 Savennières Clos du Papillon 2001 – lovely honeyed, floral nose, with spicy orange peel notes; classic bone dry palate with serrated acidity and a core of bright quince and grapefruit; long, persistent finish.
Sweeties
Lot 2002 Vert de L’Or, Vin Doux, Vin de Table – shows the tropical fruits which I associate with ripe Verdelho – sweet guava, mango and fragrant ogen melon balanced by tight acidity - £9.95 for the 1999 vintage.
2003 Coteaux du Layon, Cuvee Le Paon – very pure expression of fruit, typical of this vintage with classic orchard fruits – pear – mingling with tropical fruits – mango, guava; good freshness on the finish. £19.10
2003 Coteaux du layon, Clos de Ste Catherine – lovely spicy, poached pear fruit of great length and intensity – terrific fruit purity – lovely £19.10
2003 Quarts de Chaume – more nervosity, this is finely etched with apple, quince and pear, lightly honeyed and spicy, lovely fresh finish – very poised £15.20
Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
December 2005
