This is my third regional report on Wines of South Africa’s Taste the Earth tasting, this one focusing on Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon/Semillon blends. You’ll find my tasting notes below, together with details of the earth which gave birth to these, among the New World’s most exciting Sauvignons and Sauvignon blends.
Though my tasting notes didn’t always tally with the winemaker’s views on how their site expresses itself in the wine, check out my notes here on a fascinating Sauvignon masterclass I attended in the Cape in 2008. It brilliantly showcased the different traits of Sauvignon from the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley’s three sub-regions.
Sauvignon Blanc
Reyneke Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (Stellenbosch) – made with the Cape’s only Certified Demeter biodynamic grapes, this is a funky little number with really juicy, leesy gooseberry fruit; good persistence. £12.99 at Oddbins. I’m a huge fan of the barrel fermented Reserve Sauvignon, the 2008 of which I tasted in May at London Wine Fair. Though it showed a veneer of oak (toast and lemon oil), beneath lurked concentrated blackcurrant bud fruit, which showed long and persistent on the finish. Not sure if it’s in the UK, but definitely worth checking out.
Decomposed, granitic soils, sandy loam on gravel on clay.
Catherine Marshall Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (Durbanville) – A slightly sweaty guava nose with ripe pink grapefruit which follows through on the lively palate. Pithy long finish. RRP: £9.25
Maritime proximity on northern and southern soils along the Dorstberg slopes in Durbanville is ideal for this cool loving variety. Deep red, soils with decomposed granite and high clay profiles provides enough soil moisture so that all vineyards are dry land (no irrigation). With 700mm rainfall per year and cool mists continually spilling over the vines from the cold Atlantic Ocean ensures that the berries are uniformly and optimally ripened.
Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc, Hemel en Aarde 2009 (Walker Bay) – a bit reduced initially but it’s got nice weight – a richness/leesy quality and cool clay tang – which puts me in mind of a Terres Blanches Sancerre. Youthful with very good potential. RRP: £9.99 at Wimbledon Wine Cellar, SA wines online, Slurp.co.uk, Halifax Wine company
According to winemaker Haans Storm, “a combination of Table Mountain Sandstone and clay rich soils results in a complex, pungent wine and is a pure expression of Sauvignon Blanc from this region. It maintains the typical Southern Right balance of Old World minerality and length with hints of New World palate coverage and body”
Lomond Pincushion Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (Cape Agulhas) – I really enjoyed this wine when I first came across it as Cape Wine in 2008. It didn’t disappoint with its classic “green” grassy/herbaecous nose and palate with nice weight, line and balance and a talc-like mineral edge. Well done. RRP: £10.00 at Forth wines
Planted on four low-vigour soil types: Dresden, Wasbank, Houwhoek and Estcourt. The former three are examples of gravelly ferricrete (koffieklip), soils, while the latter tends to be much sandier. These soils tend to give the more tropical flavours to the wines [which you’ll notice I didn’t pick up!].
Lomond Sugarbush Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (Cape Agulhas) – More thrust and palate presence to this cuvee which shows ripe citrus/lemon and steelier grapefruit; very good length, persistence and minerality. Very good. RRP: £10.00 at Forth wines
Planted on three soil types occurring within this single vineyard block: deep, darkish Tukulu, Cartref with a sandy top layer and a decomposed sandstone substructure, and Estcourt that, like Cartref, has a sandy top layer but a kaolin substructure of heavy clay. The kaolin & Clay structure give the wines the flinty, minerally character.
Buitenverwachting Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (Constantia) – A citrus-driven nose and flinty and steely with grapefruit and whetstone, even a hint of sweet talc. Long. Very good. RRP: £13.50 at Swig
The vineyard is based on decomposed granite on a south facing slope at 200m. Winemaker Brad Paton says “we have identified this site as something special, as the Sauvignon Blanc fruit retains its flavours and develops over a much longer period. The complex structure is really the magic in this wine”
Steenberg Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2009 (Constantia) – though the nose is quite classic – fresh and grassy with pear – it’s more tropical/exotic in the mouth with sweet citrus, ripe mandarin and an attractive fennel quality. Good weight and length. On-trade only (importer John Armit). RRP: £19.99
Winemaker JD Pretorus says “Steenberg Sauvignon Blanc Reserve is the ultimate expression of Steenberg terrior, it is a selected portion of the best block of Sauvignon Blanc on Steenberg.”
Tokara Walker Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (Walker Bay) – a fresh and mineral cool climate style with mid-palate depth, showing blackcurrant bud, bay leaf and dried herbs. Nice weight and balance – very good. RRP: 13.00 at Slurp, Swig
Made from grapes grown on Tokara’s Siberia Farm in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, Walker Bay. The soils are very low potential and light texture with heavy clay at shallow depths, resulting in the unique mineral character of the wine.
Sauvignon/Semillon blends
Tokara Directors Reserve White 2008 (Stellenbosch) – in case you’re wondering, Directors Reserve is the new name for Tokara White. A tight nose and palate with lime/lemon oil/zest, smoke, dried herbs and an undertow of minerality. Good power and line. RRP: £18.99
The grapes originated from Oakleaf soils on Tokara’s property in Stellenbosch. The Semillon is from a single block yielding around 9 t/ha and the Sauvignon Blanc is from 2 vineyards (the highest on the property) yielding between 4 and 9 t/ha.
Strandveld Vineyards Adamastor 2008 (Elim) – this blend of 56% Sauvignon Blanc & 44% Semillon is rich and creamy with an (attractively) vegetal nose and palate, ripe lemon, vanilla and dried herbs. A stony minerality makes for a balanced wine – a great food wine. Well done. RRP: £16.00 at Yeo & Co
From yellow Ferricrete and white Quartzite soils, winemaker Conrad Volk. Reckons this “shows the unique minerality of Sauvignon Blanc from Elim and combines it with a dusty, full creaminess of barrel-fermented Semillon.”
Steenberg Magna Carta 2007 (Constantia) – a ripe, exotic blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc/30% Semillon, which shows jasmine, ripe citrus peel, pithy grapefruit and fleshy tangerine on nose and palate. The finish is long with jasmine lift and a nutty undertow. Pricey at £35.99 – I’d like to see a little more structure over opulence. RRP: £35.99 at SA Wines Online
From Clovelly soils.
Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
(Wines tasted 27 July 2010)
