This is my fourth regional report on Wines of South Africa’s July Taste the Earth tasting at the South African Embassy (pictured), this one focusing on red Bordeaux single varietal wines and blends.
A couple of years ago, I was exchanging emails with Andre Van Rensberg, who makes some of the Cape’s finest Bordeaux blends, red and white at Vergelegen (see my write up of a vertical tasting here). Vexed and/or perplexed by the fashion for Syrah and Rhone blends he memorably expressed his firm belief that ”the little black number for ladies (á la Chanel!) will always be stunning, and the same applies to King Cab.” And the top Cape Cabernets are right up there.
At this extensive tasting, I didn’t taste top wines from Vergelegen, Rustenberg and the like (in case you’re wondering why they’re not mentioned!) You’ll find my tasting notes below of my stand out wines from those I did taste, together with details of the earth which gave birth to these Bordeaux varietal wines and blends.
Raats Cabernet Franc 2007 (Stellenbosch) – a smart, nuanced wine with dried sage and cinnamon spice to its concentrated, almost crunchily well-defined cherry fruit supported by sinewy tannins. Lovely length and delicacy – a great partner for duck. Very good. RRP c £17.99 at Naked Wines.
Decomposed granite soils.
Dixon’s Peak Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2007 (Coastal Region) – this organic wine from Waverley Hills Organic Wines & Olives has a lifted blueberry nose and palate with meatier/savoury black olive. Well made with a nice clarity to the fruit, supple tannins and good balance. A little pricey though. On trade only/RRP £15.15
Grown organically on the Glenrosa slopes of the Witzenberg Mountain Range at about 250m above sea level. The particular herbs and shrubs at this altitude and on this soil type contribute to a herbaceousness that can be associated with minty flavours [though I didn’t pick them up].
Waterford Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 (Stellenbosch) – this is a classy blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot, 5% Malbec with well defined bright cassis, cedar, minerals and earth supported by firm, sinewy tannins. Very good. RRP: £14.75 at BBR
Iron rich Table Mountain sandstone over a medium dense clay subsoil.
Springfield Methode Ancienne Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 (Robertson) – supple with a good depth of cassis several years on and an attractive leesy, texture as well as savoury oak. RRP £20.00 at SA Wines Online
Winemaker/owner Abrie Bruwer says “Twenty six years ago we cleared a 2,8ha triangle of land previously ignored, because it was not “good” enough. Too rocky [75% Quartz Rock] and nearly too steep….Our vines did grow, struggling at first – virtually no soil, roots had to creep past rocks; they took much longer to bear than others, but eventually did. The miracle was in the fruit. Tiny berries – intense in colour and flavour….”
Vilafonté Series M 2006 (Paarl) – I’m a fan of Vilafonte wines which are made by Zelma Long - long in name, long on palate, with well-defined, juicy fruit and fine grained tannins, the wines have admirable elegance and this blend of 44% Cabernet Franc, 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot with 3% Malbec is no exception with fresh cinnamon-licked damson and plum fruit. RRP: £ 20.99 at Handford Wines
For Zelma Long “The Vilafonté wines are all about the soil – it is even named after the soil-type on property called vilafontes. The soils are amongst the oldest in the world having been carbon-dated at between 750,000 and 1,500,000 years old. The soils are very weathered and stripped of their nutrients leading to very small vines in a high density planting pattern. The smaller vines and weathered soils induce an accelerated ripening and oenological development pattern that leads to a typical harvest date being 2-3 weeks sooner than industry average. Tiny yields lead to intensity, concentration and a solid chemical structure that contributes excellent ageability in this wine.”
Tokara Directors Reserve Red 2006 (Stellenbosch) – 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot, 8% Merlot. Winemaker Miles Mossop impresses again! This flagship red shows perfumed ripe blueberry and cassis with cinnamon and bay leaf spice; fine, cedar-dusted tannins make for apoised, elegant wine. Very good. £ 22.95 at Wine Direct
Estate fruit comes slopes of the Simonsberg Mountain, but only the best of the best – the best grapes from the best blocks on Oakleaf soils. The average yield is between 5 and 9 t/ha (32 & 58 hl/ha).
MR de Compostela 2007 (Stellenbosch) – a muscular blend of 32% Cabernet Franc, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Malbec, 16% Petit Verdot and 8% Merlot with a deep, spicy nose and palate with concentrated blueberry, cassis and earthy, savoury lentil notes buttressed by tensile tannins – sinew and heft. Impressive and needs time. RRP c. £32.99 at Handford Wine, Planet of the Grapes
Kaapzicht Steytler Vision 2006 (Bottelary Hills Stellenbosch) – Pinotage makes for a gutsier “Bordeaux blend,” dry and earthy, with a black treacle sweetness held in check by a dense and dark, taut underbelly of fruit. (50 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 35 % Pinotage, 15 % Merlot) £2o.99 at South African Wines Online
Soil type: ‘Clovelly’ weathered granite topsoil on a layer of gravel, above a crumbly clay sub – soil. Yield of 7 – 8 tons per hectare
Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
(Wines tasted 27 July 2010)
