Vergelegen have carved out a formidable reputation for their wines in a remarkably short period of time since the Somerset West vineyard in Stellenbosch was re-planted by then new owners Anglo American in 1989. Why? First, location, location, location. Only 6km from False Bay, in the glass, cooling sea breezes translate into well-defined finely structured reds and whites. Second, Anglo American only replanted the vineyards after intensive, 2 year climatic and soil tests and, with 21 different soil types, careful attention to soil and grape matching has paid dividends. Third, winemaker Andre van Rensberg is something of a genius in the cellar, especially when it comes to red Bordeaux varieties.
The whites
Vergelegen Sauvignon Blanc 2008 - with 4% of Semillon for mouthfeel, this is a good food wine, showing a little reduction (struck match), crisp acid and crunchy stone and citrus fruit. Very clean, well made.
Vergelegen Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2008 - a dry farmed, single vineyard wine that sees lees and skin contact, it is more complex and textured with a yeasty, tangy nose, bruised apples and more tropical fruit.Develops nicely with a couple of years under its belt.
Vergelegen Chardonnay 2007 - (40% barrel fermented and aged) toasty with sweet mandarin and cashew; has an attractive cool, undertlying minerality.
Vergelegen Chardonnay Reserve 2007 – from a 20 year old single vineyard, it shows spicy posh french oak and white peach and citrus fruit. Needs time to develop a little complexity but is very well made.
Vergelegen Prestige White 2006 – 71% Semillon, this Bordeaux blend with Sauvignon Blanc sees 10 months in oak, the Sauvignon in 500l barrels (50% new), the Semillon in 225l barriques (all new). No malolactic fermentation maintains freshness as does maturing the wine on the lees. It then spends a year in bottle. A complex, impressive wine with a sweet herbal character, smoky oak/roast hazlenut with a tangy, yoghurty/creamy, rich mid-palate with citrus (lemon) and stone fruit. It finishes dry and mineral. Very good indeed.
The reds
Vergelegen Mill Race 2005 - made from a blend of young estate vine fruit with bought in older fruit for structure this is smoky and tightly fashioned with sweet black berry and currant fruit wed to a lean (but not unripe) backbone of tannins.
Vergelegen Merlot Reserve 2005 - blueberryfruit fleshes out a tight backbone of savoury tannin with bright acidity and smoky fynbos notes.
Vergelegen Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2005 – with 5% Cabernet Franc (also in the Merlot above). A stunning vintage and this has always represented knock out value for money given it’s structure, complexity and finesse. This has a gorgeous nose and palate; ripe but with tighly coiled small berry fruit with cedar,lead pencil, tobacco, sinewy tannins and a dry gravelly finish.
Vergelegen Shiraz Reserve 2005 - quite taut with cedar-edged berry fruit, blood plum and a savoury meaty edge; dryish, textured tannins.
Vergelegen Prestige Red 2004 – very mouthfilling, with bouncy liquorice-edged blueberry and cassis fruit it’s lush but serious with its underlying backbone of taut, grainy tannins keeping the whole in check. Very good.
Vergelegen Prestige Red 2003 - with a couple more years under its belt this has developed more tertiary notes of soy and balsamic; lots of cassis, sinewy tanins, that liquorice note. Super long, terrific.
Vergelegen Prestige Red 2002 – very succulent berry and currant fruit with spicy fynbos and bay leaf notes; a dry tight mineral/gravelly finish. Good.
Vergelegen Prestige Red 2001 – silkier and more iummediately seductive with cassis and graphite and a lovely persistence and vinosity; excellent.
Vergelegen Prestige Red 2000 - big tannins, a touch clamping but big pure fruit beneath. A keeper.
Vergelegen “ V” 2004 -ripe cassis, blackcurrant and briary fruit, tightly concentrat and cleaving to a taut, tannic backbone. Very impressivew with heaps of potential.
Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
9 July 2008
