Naming a wine after a Cape Prime Minister might be thought ambitious but then, as demonstrated by this vertical, Bordeaux blend Rustenberg John X Merriman is a finely polished, class act. Great value too at £13.99 at Majestic/c£12 at Waitrose.
It hails from the heart of South Africa’s Cabernet capital, Simonsberg-Stellenbosch, South Africa’s first designated ward, which lies on the Simonsberg mountain’s south-west facing slopes. Its free-draining, deep rust-coloured decomposed granite soils are the perfect growing medium for Cabernet while elevation together with its shady south-west orientation offer respite from the summer heat. The result? Concentrated, ripe yet balanced wines which will keep for a decade or more.
Rustenberg John X Merriman 2008 (51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot, 4% Cabernet Franc & 2% Malbec)
Enticing cigar box nose with ripe cassis and youthful bright red cherry in the mouth supported by fine tannins. Long, persistent and elegant.
Even ripening and phenolic ripeness at lower sugars with fantastic acids bode well say Rustenberg. I reckon this sleek, youthful wine will go another 10 years plus so, though it’s very drinkable now, hang onto it for at least another 3-5 years to allow some of the delicious tertiary complexity which the 2004 is now showing to develop.
Rustenberg John X Merriman 2005 (54% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 3% Malbec)
A very deep hue, this is a powerful wine – very iron fist in velvet glove. A firm backbone of tannin behind its red cherry, slightly charry fruit makes for a tight knit finish with warm earth and minerals.
A classic vintage according to Rustenberg. Keep this long-lived wine another couple of years before broaching and expect it to last a decade.
Rustenberg John X Merriman 2004 (46% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc, 9% Petit Verdot)
Though initially a little edgey on the nose, it soon opens up showing some lovely tertiary development and tafetta layers to its slender frame with liquorice, cedar spice and cigar box to its vivid, juicy red cherry, blueberry and cassis fruit. With its measured yet seamless delivery of fruit, it’s long, elegant and restrained. Lovely. My pick of the bunch with the 2008.
Rustenberg John X Merriman 2003 (52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot)
A lifted nose shows lively red cherry fruit. A juicy palate shows cherry, damson and plum fruit with liquorice and baked earth. Firm tannins are a touch unyielding. Give it a couple of years.
Rustenberg John X Merriman 2001 (53% Merlot, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc)
Much more expansive than the 2003 with star anise, liquorice and cedar layers to its chocolate cherry truffle palate and a delicious savoury, gamey undertow. Very Right Bank and on song now. Firm, ripe tannins suggest it will hold for a good 3-5 years yet.
Rustenberg John X Merriman 1999 (64% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Cabernet Franc)
Really spicy, characterful (in a good way!) fynbos nose and palate with hints of saddle leather and anise to its still vital core of red cherry/currant, blackcurrant and baked plum supported by fine tannins. Persistent, with good length. Drink up in the next 3 years.
Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
(Wines tasted 18 May 2011)
