Regarded as one of the Cape’s finest Burgundian variety specialists, Anthony Hamilton Russell believes that Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir has now attained the standard of the Chardonnay when, 10 years ago, he says “the Pinot wasn’t even close.” Why? After extensive soil research, plantings have been limited to 52 hectares of stony, clay-rich, shale-derived soil that produces the most expressive, individual Pinot. Hamilton-Russell believes that, while Lower Hemel-en-Aarde’s proximity to the sea is very important, these soils account more for the minerality of his wines than the climate that he says is pretty warm in comparison with Europe.
Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir 2007 – pale cherry hue, expressive nose shows oak but also fresh ‘n pretty cranberry and red cherry, flavours that follow through on the palate; great intensity of flavour, savoury texture, grip and line. Good length and (as with all the wines shown), builds in the mouth.
Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir 2006 – pale ruby, a little reduced and tight on the nose; a darkly flavoured palate is savoury with earthy beetroot, hung, smoky meats wed to a bigger tannin structure than the 07 – lots of potential in a style that Hamilton-Russell describes as a hint of the Rhone – not so surprising when you consider that the Rhone is just south of Burgundy!
Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir 2005 - lovely fruit purity to the nose with fresh red plum fruit; red fruits, plum, spice and chocolate mingle on the palate; great persistence – peacock’s tail. Very good.
Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir 2004 – a warmer vintage and a bigger wine, deeper darker colour and nose with lots of Christmas spice/pudding characters supported by firm tannins…the fruit gets a little left behind on the finish. My least favourite.
Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir 2003 - a lovely brightness to this wine – Pinot perfect! Mouthfilling yet well-defined berry and cherry fruit under-scored by mineral, earthy and savoury notes. Very complete with fine tannins; great length.
Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
January 2009
