Danie de Wet has championed Chardonnay in South Africa, helping to bring in Burgundy clones and adopting a Burgundian, parcellated approach to his own Robertson vineyards. No better host then for this Chardonnay event, the first of its kind and designed to show off the cream of the Cape’s crop.
Said cream is selected by a panel of South African wine writers and an anonymous consumer (!)
Thelema Chardonnay 2004 (Stellenbosch) – toast and limes on the first sniff, followed by white peach on the swirl. A rich, ripe, mealy palate shows roast hazelnut and creme brulee vanilla notes to its white peach; citrus acidity provides good balance and freshness to the finish. Very good.
Springfield Estate Methode Ancienne Chardonnay 2002 (Robertson) – honeyed, botrytic nose with spicy orange peel and candy floss; these notes follow through on the palate with a pronounced tangerine character and wilder tanggy notes; good acidity, but on the cusp of disjointed.
Bouchard Finlayson Missionvale Chardonnay 2004 (Walker Bay) - a complex nose with fynbos/lavender, smoke, toast, apple, pineapple, lime and cream; the palate homes in on the lime with delicious baked, spicy golden delicious and lavender – still going strong. Impressive.
Vergelegen Chardonnay 2005 (Stellenbosch) – as always with Vergelegen, this is a well made wine though it lacks the complexity of some of its peers today. Sports a fresh nose with vanilla hints to its pear, lime and white peach, even succulent lychee and talc, so I guess somewhat more complex than most!!
Glen Carlou Chardonnay Reserve 2004 (Paarl) – ripe, spicy white peach nose with lime, flowers and toast. The palate is rich and honeyed with butterscotch and baked apple kept on their toes by livelier lime and spice notes. Well done.
Rustenberg 5 Soldiers Chardonnay 2003 (Stellenbosch) – gently spicy nose with spicy, toasty pear and white peach; a weighty palate shows tangy citrus and white orchard fruits; good depth of flavour and balance.
Mulderbosch Barrel-fermented Chardonnay 2004 (Stellenbosch) - a smoky nose with savoury, salted limes. Lively citrus palate with limes and sweeter tangerine; a hint of toast, so judicous oak. Well made.
De Wetshof Bateleur Chardonnay 2003 (Robertson) – leesy, creamy, pear and quince on the nose, a touch chalky; minerally palate with pear and melon fruit, fresh acidity and good length. Still going strong.
Jordan Nine Yards Chardonnay 2004 (Stellenbosch) – touch of toast to the nose with oatmeal, fig and white fruit; very fresh palate, harmonious integration of oak with the white stone fruits and lemon and lime acidity. Very good.
Hamilton Russell Chardonnay 2005 (Walker Bay) – a fresh, complex nose with floral, chalk, lemon and lime and spicy oak; a firm spine of acidity makes for a super long, well persistent wine with apple, lemon and lime zip and a mineral undertow. Terrific.
Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
7 April 2006
