I spent a week at Boekenhoutskloof in 2004, sandwiched in and amongst a sea of Chenin Blanc which I was studying at the time, much to the bemusement of winemaker Marc Kent (pictured).
They don’t grow Chenin at Boekenhoutskloof or the newly acquired Porcelain Mountain vineyard in Swartland. Nor do they make one under negociant labels Porcupine Ridge or Le Cap Maritime, a new Walker Bay label about which more later. Still, all is forgiven when one takes into account his sensual way with Syrah which, ironically, has its origins in his hands off approach to winemaking.
Kent wild ferments the Syrah in small open concrete vats (over which I have balanced precariously, pumping over) and, though it’s aged in French barriques for 27 months, the oak is all used. The wines are bottled without acidification or filtration. This traditional, oxidative approach lends itself to a wine driven by more developed secondary and tertiary flavours than primary fermentation esters and oak. As it says on the tin, it’s Syrah not Shiraz.
And tradition also influences grape sourcing. Boekenhoutskloof Syrah has always been sourced from a single vineyard. Aside from the maiden 1997 vintage, infamously grubbed up the following year, the grapes derive from a 2.73ha parcel of SE-facing poor decomposed granite-rich slopes. The vineyard belongs to rugby icon Schalk Burger Senior’s Wellington (see here for a report on Burger’s own wines), which was planted to the SH-21 clone in 1993. Cropped at between 6-8t/ha, Boekenhoutskloof stagger the harvest, picking earlier for higher natural acidity and later for fuller fruit and, intriguingly, more violets.
A vertical presented by Kent at London International Wine Fair last month provided a neat opportunity to assess how the wines have evolved in bottle and stylistically. It confirmed that Boekenhoutskloof Syrah is most definitely in a Syrah/Rhone mold – relatively savoury and textured compared with most Cape and New World Shiraz. In this and the wines’ plum and chocolate layers, there’s a clear family resemblance, a consistency.
As for differences between the vintages, I confess I was a little disappointed by the speedier than expected development of the earliest vintages shown, the 2001 (a warm year) and the 2002 (more forgivingly, a patchy, rainy vintage). The 2003 vintage seemed markedly fresher and atypically silky; from 2004, the wines seemed fleshier and less phenolic (even taking into account their relative youth). Kent mentioned that some vintages had fewer stalks and later vintages have “a more meaningful portion of whole bunches; this really contributes to the fruit profile.” I suspect that it also accounts for the plusher, velvety texture. My guess is that these later vintages will last longer.
Finally, a word on another Boekenhoutskloof consistency – price. Despite the high demand for this iconic Cape Shiraz, the price has barely changed since my Oddbins Fine Wine days several years ago. You can still pick it up for around £25, for example from Harrogate Fine Wine Company, South African Wines Online, or Good Wine Online.
Boekenhoutskloof Syrah 2001 – (a warm-hot year) a spicy nose with violets. In the mouth it’s quite smoky, with sweet earthy notes and, as it opens up in the glass, it shows plum, raspberry and bitter, dark chocolate. The tannins are a touch drying on the finish whereas when I tasted this wine in 2008, they were supple and the finish vigorous. Since the tasting I’ve opened up 2 of my own bottles of this vintage (also for the 2002) and tasted them at leisure, which confirms to me that this a drink up wine. 15.21% abv, pH: 3.89, Total Acid: 6.1 g/l, Volatile Acidity: 0.75 g/l
Boekenhoutskloof Syrah 2002 – (a rainy vintage) this is lighter than the 2001 as one would expect, fleshier/more loose knit with red fruits/blood plum, that dark chocolate quality and a meaty,earthy/mushroom notes to nose and palate. The tannins are leaner and a little bitter. The alcohol, though lower, is more apparent. A less charming vintage, but not without interest or pleasure – drink up.14.81% abv, pH:3.75, Total Acid:6.1 g/l, Volatile Acidity:85 g/l
Boekenhoutskloof Syrah 2003 – (“a solid but not great” growing season according to Marc) a fruitier nose and palate with blackberry and cherry as well as plum and dark chocolate. This is quite different texturally, fleshy, almost silky. A mid-weight style. Good.
Boekenhoutskloof Syrah 2004 – (a mild but dry year, very good) a meaty, savoury nose and palate with plum, dark chocolate and blackberry fruit, this is long and beautifully textured in taffeta layers; warm and satisfying it’s a very sensual wine. Lovely.
Boekenhoutskloof Syrah 2005 – (a precocious year) a very rich, plush nose, with plum and chocolate, with meaty, savoury lentil notes fleshing out quite firm, almost bony tannins which, together with good balancing freshness, make for a complete wine. Very good.
Boekenhoutskloof Syrah 2006 – (a milder year) a lifted nose shows mint and violets and this wine has an attractive freshness and elegance about it, a bit less heft than the 04 or 05. Good. 14.56% abv, pH: 3.77, TA: 5.9g / litre, VA: 0.68g / litre.
Boekenhoutskloof Syrah 2007 – ( a concentrated but balanced year) a very involving wine, with rich dark chocolate edged cassis, blackberry and plum. Though plush, it has balanced acidity and supple tannins. Broachable now but good ageing potential too. Very good. 14.48% abv, PH: 3.89, TA: 5.0g/l, VA: 0.67g/l,
And finally, a new wine:
Boekenhoutskloof Le Cap Maritime Shiraz 2008 – from a Walker Bay site within a kilometre of the sea, this is a silky, elegant wine, more fruit forward than the Boekenhoutskloof Syrah (perhaps why it’s labelled Shiraz) with lifted floral (violet) notes to its red and black fleshy fruit. £12.99 and currently on deal at Majestic with a saving of £6 when you buy two bottles (which works out at £9.99/bottle). The vines are 6 years old. Kent is also working with some Sauvignon Blanc down south in Stanford under this label.
Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
(Wines tasted 20 May 2010)
