Home to one of the Cape’s oldest farms, Vergelegen boasts a historic Cape Dutch homestead complete with 300 year old camphor trees. National monuments (pictured below) which, so I’m told, much excited Prince Charles and Camilla who had visited a week or so before me.
Located on the Schaapenberg, high up a long, steeply pitched drive way, the winery’s clean cut, modern, purposeful design (pictured top) feels a world apart. The same might be said of the wines. Beautifully constructed and nothing less than immaculate, Vergelegen’s Cabernet Sauvignon blends in particular have been a consistent beacon of clarity.
That’s no mean feat in a country whose red wines have suffered from well documented problems with leaf roll virus, arch enemy of late ripening variety, Cabernet Sauvignon. The secret? The appliance of science, which informed a rigorous two year climatic and soil analysis when the farm was planted in 1989. And perhaps even more importantly, the reappliance of science.
The vineyards are monitored hawk-eye-like since, as became plain during the course of my trip, you can never be complacent about leaf roll. In 2001 when it reared its ugly head at Vergelegen, MD Don Tooth says “Andre [van Rensburg, the winemaker] rang the bell” and 110ha of vineyard was replanted. Just as well that deep pockets lie behind the farm. Its ambitious redevelopment has been spearheaded by Anglo American, who acquired it in 1987.
At any rate, according to Tooth, the new improved stock which comes from “foundation material from mother plantings” has resulted in substantial dividends. He reckons it has been instrumental to the vines achieving physiological ripeness earlier. In consequence, alcohol levels are down to around 13 to 13.5% abv and, he says, the fruit is “really vibrant.”
It’s absolutely what you want to see in wines from one of Stellenbosch’s coolest sites which, Tooth says, never have to be acidified. Slopes facing north to north-west and south to south-east between 140-330m above sea level benefit from their close proximity to the chilly Atlantic Ocean at False Bay, some six kilometres away. As he points out, these are “unashamedly food wines…it’s all about drinkability.”
Here are my notes on the wines, many of which are stocked by Majestic, also Slurp. Majestic’s current South Africa promotion includes a buy two bottles save either £4 or £6 on a number of Vergelegen wines. The Cabernet Sauvignon, my pick of the bunch on price/quality ratio, is a real steal at £13.99 on deal and, I might add £13.95 “normal” price at Slurp.
Vergelegen Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (Stellenbosch)
Though this wine sometimes incorporates a dash of Semillon in this cool vintage, none was required. Grapes were sourced from the upper and lower slopes of the Schaapenberg. It shows fresh fig hints, lemony grapefruit and sweet, ripe pyrazenes – this is not a herbaceous style. Like the chalkiness going through – good texture! A smart buy at £9.99
Vergelegen Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2011 (Stellenbosch)
This wine hails from the highest part of the estate – a single parcel at around 330m. Well exposed on the upper Schaapenberg, it’s whipped by sea breezes and typically ripens a full three weeks later than the lower vineyards. As well as being concentrated by the winds, dry-farming plays a role in this wine’s structure and concentration. Tooth tells me that the rocky soils are so moisture retentive that, if you put some rocks in a jug, they mop up the water overnight. In the glass this concentration translates into a penetrating Sauvignon of lovely length and lingering intensity with a hint of honeyed fynbos (a slightly vegetal/earthy/floral/blossom note) and steely girder of grapefruity acidity. Very good indeed. Tooth says 18 hours of skin contact enhances texture and longevity and, if you can resist it, it’ll age for 4-6 years, becoming honeyed and richer.
Vergelegen Chardonnay 2011 (Coastal)
The estate’s Chardonnay was decimated by leaf roll. More is being planted but, meantime, fruit is being sourced from other cool climate regions. This wine comprises 51% estate fruit, the balance coming from Walker Bay (21%) and Darling (29%). In the winery changes have also been afoot and, three vintages ago, van Rensberg pulled back on oak and malolactic fermentation. The outcome? A wine which, though it sports hints of cashew, butterscotch and honey/fynbos is textured without being creamy and round whilst restrained with its white peach and crisp, lemony acidity. The salt-seasoned finish is still very tight. Good.
Vergelegen Reserve Chardonnay 2010 (Stellenbosch)
A warm vintage and this single parcel wine is richer and riper with peachy fruit, sweet and spicy oak, cashew and honeycombe. The estate’s trademark grapefruity acidity brings balance and I liked the salt caramel note to the finish. A powerful Chardonnay which I reckon will benefit from another year or two in bottle when it’ll seem a little less “solid.”
Vergelegen White 2010
This powerful but beautifully composed white Bordeaux blend has always impressed. The 2010 (51% Semillon/49% Sauvignon Blanc) is the first to sport the new “GVB” packaging, which denotes “grown vinified and bottled.” In the glass it’s pale straw with green glints. That fynbos perfume leaps out the glass, a delicious ripe vegetal/earthy character, inveigled with smoky Semillon notes. A wonderful rush of flavours greets the mouth and lingers. Grapefruit, pink grapefruit pith and hints of sweet mandarin are cut by a mineral-sluiced mouth cleansing but harmonius acidity which doesn’t detract from its waxy lanolin texture/flavour. Love the sweet ‘n savoury and round yet linear dimensions of this wine, once again deliciously seasoned by a cool, salty minerality to the finish. Terrific with none of the austerity which makes white Bordeaux so much more demanding.
Vergelegen Shiraz 2008
Tooth admits that the estate’s 2ha of Shiraz are “an anomaly” given that the variety is arguably not viticulturally suited to the site but, he says, van Rensberg made a very good one at Stellenzicht and Tooth himself really loves it so….Though my notes don’t say this, I’m pretty sure that this is the first Shiraz to feature Viognier, 1% since you ask, bought in then frozen until the Shiraz was harvested after which the pair were co-fermented. Though initially a little reduced, as it opens up it has that floral/orange peel Viognier-ness. In the mouth fluid with a flourish of a finish, I say it’s possessed of good forward momentum which Tooth much better describes as a “pebble in a pond effect” – nice! There’s spice and pepper along the way for interest. A very drinkable not over-worked elegant SV.
Vergelegen Reserve Shiraz 2007
To use a cliché, this is much more masculine – smoky, meaty and dark with a grunty, savoury and textured finish with crisp but integrated acid. Lacks a bit of sensuality for my taste but it’s well executed and I like its dry, serious, savoury quality.
Vergelegen Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2008 (formerly Mill Race)
A very approachable yet elegant blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (45%), Merlot (37%) and Cabernet Franc (18%) which hits all the rights notes with its perfumed blueberry, succulent mulberry and the two Cabernets’ hints of bell pepper and graphite. Fresh, fine tannined and targeted, with Vergelegen’s rifle shot linearity.
Vergelegen Merlot Reserve 2007
Tooth describes this as “the heartbreak grape” and says van Rensberg discovered the secret to great Merlot when he worked in the Napa in 2005. Since then the vineyards have been worked harder and fears that sugars would rise uanacceptably have been proved unfounded. Grapes are harvested a couple of weeks later to ensure phenolic ripeness when, Tooth says, they’re like “old man’s face” to the touch, i.e. with a touch of wrinkle. With phenological ripeness they can be worked harder in the winery too. The grapes also spend 3 weeks longer on skins! With riper fruit and better polymerised tannins, barrel ageing is shorter (14 months down from 20 months). It’s a very seductive, super polished wine whose silky texture means it slips down all too easily. Tooth describes it as “a huge leap forward” and, with its blueberry perfumed seamless palate, it certainly does what Merlot (here with a dash of 6% each of Cab Franc & Petit Verdot) does very well – indeed elegantly. Very good.
Vergelegen Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2006 (Stellensboch)
This long, multi-dimensional wine always punches above its weight. Beautifully executed yet characterful, it’s fine-grained supporting backbone of tannin is positively drenched with well-defined, juicy, perfumed cassis, blueberry and mulberry. Fynbos/earth and floral notes bring interest and finesse. Fabulously accomplished winemaking for the money.
Vergelegen Flagship Red 2005 (Stellenbosch)
This comprises 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot and 9% Cabernet Franc aged for 20 months in 100% new French oak. Though it’s nearly twice the price of the Reserve cab, it’s ravishingly refined for the price. A concentrated but elegant and perfumed core of cassis comes delicately threaded with sweet dried herbs, cocoa, tobacco and balsamic notes. Underscored by a mineral, graphite and gravel-sluiced acidity, long and persistent, the finish carries great echoes of cassis and cigar box. Terrific.
Vergelegen V 2007 (Stellenbosch)
And double your outlay again (a little less actually) and you can buy the flagship, flagship wine – how does that work? Tooth tells me the idea was to make a single parcel wine to which end French oenologists were despatched to the vineyard for three weeks. Ironically, the patch of fruit on which they alighted previously went into the entry level Cabernet Merlot blend. This “best block” has since been ring fenced and worked harder (better canopy management) for V. It’s a plush affair, super concentrated with a bottomless pit of dark chocolate, cassis and juicy blood plum wed to melting soft, mercurial tannins. It makes for a seamless - think silk stockings – mouthfeel. For me, it’s the more obviously “new world” wine and, for my palate, a touch over polished. But it’ll mesmerise others. An exceedingly well made wine.
Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
(Wines tasted 9 November 2011)
