The Simonsberg is a mountain that straddles the Stellenbosch and Paarl wine districts. In 1980, the Simonsberg’s south-west facing slopes in the Stellenbosch district had the honour of becoming South Africa’s first designated ward. Wards are more tightly delineated than districts or regions according to soil type, climate and topography. It has only 14 producers and is best known for its Cabernets.
Simonsberg’s defining characteristics are:
- its free-draining, deep rust-coloured decomposed granite soils that retain sufficient moisture to make irrigation an optional extra, making for concentrated, ripe grapes;
- elevation (vineyards ranging from 200 to 500m), which helps mitigate summer temperatures (diurnal temperature variation); and
- its south-west orientation (as opposed to Paarl’s sunnier north-east aspect) protects against the full glare of the sun since some vineyards don’t see any sun until late morning.
This tasting gave an insight into the range and quality of wines produced in Simonsberg, Stellenbosch.
Quoin Rock Oculus 2005 – a creamy, textured, slightly smoky barrel fermented style of Sauvignon Blanc with a juicy undertow of blackcurrant bud and gooseberry; limey acidity adds frisk.
Warwick Estate Professor Black Sauvignon Blanc 2008 – crisp, grassy, quite pungent with richer, riper tropical notes. Well made.
Thelema Sauvignon Blanc 2008 – quite round and ripe with passionsfruit, lemongrass, pear and a grass grass (not lemongrass).
Morgenhof Chenin Blanc 2007 – creamy and quite developed on the palate with orange peel and lively citrus acidity.
Quoin Rock Syrah 2004 – a lifted nose with beetroot; the palate is an attractive melange of wild bilberry, plum, cedar spice, dried herbs, mocha oak and meaty, savoury notes; quite a creamy texture. Very youthful.
Warwick Trilogy 2006 – an accomplished blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc & Merlot with subtle hints of mint, dried herbs and liquorice to its well-defined plum, black berry and currant fruit; dark, dry and well-balanced.
Tokara Red 2004 – a lifted nose with cherry, balsamic and spice leads on to a fresh, lively and bright palate with cherry, plum and a spicy curranty edge; poised and long with fine tannins. Very good.
Laibach Widow’s Block Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 – good freshness with blackcurrant and plums supported by ripe powdery tannins. Well done – like the freshness.
Remhoogte Merlot 2000 - a smoothie with plum, chocolate, lifted violets and svelte tannins; very polished. Good. (Michel Rolland advises).
Remhoogte Bonne Nouvelle 2005 - an attractive blend of Merlot, Pinotage, and Cabernet Sauvignon showing sweet cherry and velvety plum fruit inter-mingled with lavender, liquorice and chocolate; velvety tannins, lifted violets; finishes dry and firm – well balanced, very good.
Kanonkop Paul Sauer 1995 – plush cassis with developed smoky, quite bloody/iron mineral/warm gravel notes and savoury bay leaf; well balanced and long. Attractive in a more traditional style.
Rustenberg Peter Barlow Cabernet Sauvignon 1996 - mint and cassis with a savoury, earthy character; fine grained tannins. Good.
Warwick Cabernet Franc 1997 – very developed colour, pale and brown edges and at its peak on the palate with a delicious intensity of incense spice-edged dried red fruits/plum and mineral, warm gravelly notes.
Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
22 September 2008
