Wines of South Africa went for it with their showcase “Mega” trade tasting. Every year South African wines just taste better and better and, to cap it all, show plenty of diversity of style.
Before the event itself I attended a satellite tasting of Morgenster wines presented by the very talented winemaker, Marius Lategan, together with Morgenster’s consultant Pierre Lurton – yes, he of Cheval Blanc and Yquem fame. As one might expect given M. Lurton’s input, these are highly accomplished Bordeaux blends in a classical, restrained mode with more than a soupçon of Cabernet Franc. Wines are lively, with plenty of natural flair and not a hint of that “chunky/clunky” overworked character which can spoil good fruit.
Morgenster The Summer House 2002 – this wine benefits from being made in the difficult 2002 vintage which sounds odd until I say the estate did not make its flagship wine, “Morgenster,” that year. Only made in top vintages, previously fruit not considered good enough for Morgenster or the estate’s other wine, Lourens Valley, was sold off in bulk. By 2002, Marius and Pierre reckoned that the fruit was simply too good to sell off, even in a difficult year, hence The Summer House, the new baby of the range.The Summer House is a blend of 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc & 1% Petit Verdot. It has that lovely spicy currant/fruitcake of ripe merlot and is slightly smoky, with svelte tannins and well-balanced acidity.
Morgenster Lourens River Valley 2000 – a blend of 70% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Cabernet Franc, Pierre Lurton likened its nose to Pomerol: quite minerally and fresh, with succulent cherry and plum on nose and palate, smoke and a hint of tobacco; very elegant.
Morgenster Morgenster 2000 – 51% Cabernet Franc, 49% Cabernet Sauvignon – as one would expect given the varieties, lovely perfumed nose with cedar notes following through on the palate which shows intense cassis and has a long, spicy, minerally finish with a hint of mint. Silky tannins. Excellent.
Morgenster Morgenster 2001 – 45% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Franc & 28% Cabernet Sauvignon – rich, ripe, plummy Merlot fruit is very much to the fore with some minty Cabernet top notes. Very seductive but I confess I prefer the lively, elegant fruit of the 2000.
And on to my top selection from the mega-tasting:
Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards Swartland Syrah 2004 – Swartland Syrah really does it for me. This is a terrific, super-savoury example, the right side of feral, with its depth of wild red and black berry fruits, smoky bacon, ground black pepper and the merest scent of violets.
The Sadie Family Sequillo 2003 – this Shiraz, Mourvedre, Grenache blend changes every time I taste it, but remains a top drop, whatever its mood. Today it was looking minerally with peppery, lively red and black fruits and a meaty edge.
The Sadie Family Palladius 2004 – most deservedly this has earned 5 stars in Platter (top award) – I really applaud Eben Sadie’s go for it blend of Viognier, Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc and Chardonnay; terrific verve, freshness and vigour undercuts its rich and weighty generous girth of fruit. The 2003 has opened out since I last showed it in January with expressive vanilla and aniseed notes around a minerally core. Excellent.
Lammershoek Roulette Blanc 2004 – another unusual white blend from Swartland with Chenin, Harslevelu (features in Hungarian Tokaji), Viognier and Chardonnay producing a surprisingly fresh, dry wine, with white orchard fruits and a slightly waxy mouthfeel – put me in mind of a Rhone white.
Lammershoek Chenin Blanc Barrique 2004 – a mere 3t/ha this shows excellent concentration of bright apple and quince fruit; very good.
Raats Original Chenin Blanc 2004 – very good with lively, fresh white orchard fruits, a lick of aniseed and a hint of marzipan.
Raats Chenin Blanc 2004 – flamboyant, rich peach and apricot fruit held in check by tight, spicy French oak. Excellent and will benefit from a year or so under its belt.
Raats Cabernet Franc 2003 – pretty cherry nose with charry undertones; well-structured and balanced. Good.
De Toren Diversity Delta 2003 – rich and spicy with lovely fruit purity – very good.
De Toren Fusion V 2002 – poised, elegant wine with well-structured tannins and good depth of spicy, curranty fruit.
Tokara White 2004 – I was wary of a barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc which weighs in at 15% but the Tokara surprised me – pleasantly – with its nettley, pungent fruit and powerful, broad palate.
Bouchard Finlayson Crocodile’s Lair Chardonnay 2004 – nice tight fruit with smoky, roast hazlenut and fresh fig. Very good.
Iona Sauvignon Blanc 2005 – very spicy, with lots of fresh fennel and pear – excellent hands off, lively, fresh style.
Cape Chamonix Pinot Noir 2004 – a sensual Pinot, spicy and silky with raw beetroot, violet, raspberry and plum.
Boekenhoutskloof Porcupine Ridge Syrah 2004 – very good depth of dark spicy fruit with slightly grippy (in a good way) tannins. Excellent value.
Vergelegen White Blend 2004 (Sauv/Semillon) – very well done, herbal, lemony fruit with a nice veneer of spicy oak and a creamy finish – custard creams.
Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
October 2005
