Lavradores de Feitoria’s is an innovative group of 18 growers established in 1999, who pool their grapes, which are sourced from some 800ha in the Douro. Grapes are vinfied separately, which explains the multitude and range of vat sizes (pictured).
With a range of locations, aspects and altitudes (from 200-500m) to draw upon, Lavradores have a strong portfolio of mostly (site) blended wines, currently all table wines, which are made by Paulo Ruão and Raul Pereira (pictured below). I say currently, because Ruão tells me he’s also experimenting with Port production, he jokes, “to keep my hand in.”
It’s a philosophy (blending) which Ruão says is informed by Port winemaking tradition and, of course, the region’s mixed old vineyards. Quoting his old boss, Ramos Pinto’s João Nicolau de Almeida who said “the Douro is like an orchestra – it can play different notes,” for Ruão, it’s simply the best way to make wine here.
Sixty percent of Lavradores’ wines are exported. The domestic market is focused around cheaper wines which Ruão describes as “very Douro” – unoaked, easy to drink wines. The cornerstone of the range is the Tres Bagos label, which Ruão describes as “typical Douro, but which speaks English.” He defines this as wines with “international, fresher fruit” and some wood “but not to taste it – for good mouthfeel and finish” (and complexity).
Whites with 100% natural acidity are a particular strength and the winery is located in Sabrosa in the Baixo Corgo, the cooler, wetter, westernmost sub-region of the Douro from where most of the white grapes are sourced. Apparently white grapes have been planted in the vicinity since the 18th century and Sabrosa is where the first Viosinho was recorded.
The harvest of white grapes starts towards the end of August, not just to preserve acidity (which Ruão pragmatically observes can always be added back), but principally because, left too long, grapes lose their fresh flavour profile (pineapple and melon) and start to show more tropical favours, e.g. mango.
Ruão tells me the aim is to make “white wines of the Douro,” so moderate rather than super cool fermentation temperatures are designed to drive grape-driven not yeast-driven flavours. To that end, he also inoculates with a neutral yeast – a Portuguese Vinho Verde selection (as opposed to working with yeasts designed to emphasise aromatic or fruit expression). As he puts it, the work of the yeast is “to transform sugar into alcohol and keep the flavour of the grape in the wine.”
Lavradores de Feitoria Branco 2010 (Douro)
Four of Lavradores’ 18 producers have vineyards planted to white varieties, two in Cima Corgo and two in Baixo Corgo. The entry level white is an unoaked blend of Malvasia Fina (for depth of flavour), Siria (for smooth mouthfeel) & Gouveio (for body). Well balanced, it comes from the highest, coolest slopes at 450m- 500m. In this ripe vintage it shows pineapple and melon fruit, good body and has an attractive leesy tang/mouthfeel. There’s a vegetal, green olive note to its fresh finish too, so typical of Portuguese white wines and, of course, brilliant with its cuisine of which olive oil is a staple. Very good for entry level. 12.5%
Lavradores de Feitoria Tres Bagos White 2009 (Douro)
This barrel fermented and aged (for 6 months) white is a blend of Viosinho (which gives acidity and freshness), Malvasia Fina and Gouveio, again from the highest, coolest vineyards. Ruão says an element of new oak provides tannin which improves the wine’s resistance to oxidation. In the mouth it’s present in the form of vanilla oak which, says Ruão, disappears after 2-3 years when the wine shows more honeyed notes. The Viosinho lends good structure and a saline minerality, which underlines the wine’s freshness and vitality. Well made. 12%
Lavradores de Feitoria Tres Bagos Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (Duriense)
With its yellow tinge, this flavoursome, roundish yet structured Sauvignon sees some skin contact and 20% of the grapes are barrel fermented. It shows fruit spice (bay leaf) as well as toasty oak spice. It’s very good – more Touraine-like than Sancerre, Bordeaux even, on account of its relative breadth and bay leaf spice. 13%
Incidentally, there’s a great story behind this wine. Ruão told me the grapes come from Casa de Mateus/Palacio de Mateus near Vila Real (which originally supplied the grapes for Mateus Rosé and is pictured on its bottles). Located at 500m and with particularly pronounced diurnal temperature variation, even during summer, Dirk Niepoort (one of Lavradores’ share members), suggested that it might be a good spot for Sauvignon Blanc back in 2002. Unbeknownst to him owner Fernando Albuquerque, a huge fan of Sauvignon Blanc, had planted cuttings from France over 20 years ago, but never vinified the Sauvignon separately! In 2002, the first Sauvignon was made and following the wine’s successful reception, a further 2ha were planted in 2009, also Riesling.
Lavradores de Feitoria Meruge 2009 (Douro)
Ruão told me they wanted to make a single varietal Portuguese white wine which was as good as the Sauvignon. Gouveio and Viosinho were both considered and, in the event, Viosinho was selected because Ruão says it was the more aromatic of the two, sometimes producing Sauvignon-like aromas during ferment. The downside was a lack body, so Ruão experimented with different woods – French, Bulgarian, US and Hungarian, in the end opting for fermentation and ageing in untoasted new Portuguese oak barrels for 8 months. I venture to say that it’s even better than the Sauvignon, with sandalwood spice and hints of resin to its fruit salad palate; attractive mouthfeel too, thanks to the oak and batonnage. Ruão describes it as “a winter white wine” but it’s got impressive freshness too. Ageworthy.
Lavradores de Feitoria Red 2009 (Douro)
This blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca and Tinta Barocca possesses an attractive depth of fresh but ripe red and black fruits, blueberry too. The tannins are ripe but present, so there’s good mouthfeel too. 13%
Lavradores de Feitoria Tres Bagos 2007 (Douro)
A deep plum blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca is more grown up with lovely freshness and minerality to its tight knit, crushed red and black berry fruit. A real Douro salt lick finish too. Its aged in second year barrels 8-10 months with a view to adding complexity without compromising the wine’s freshness and fruit. Very well done. 13%
Lavradores de Feitoria Meruge 2007 (Douro)
The product of two north-facing (cool) vineyards (Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca), one old, one young made with the aim of producing a fresh, elegant style. Grapes are cold soaked on the stems for 2-3 days and then for another couple of days once it starts fermenting, before being transferred to barrel to complete the ferment. Though it’s a touch paler plum in hue and loosely modelled on Pinot Noir like Niepoort Charme, the wood is more overt, bringing sweetness, spice and vanilla. The oak is a little OTT for me, while the stems lend a resinous note and somehow detract from the line and fluidity of the wine. As it opens up in the glass it improves, but I have to say I was disappointed by a bottle of the 2003 which I recently opened and decanted at home – for me, the oak influence remained marked. 14.5%
Lavradores de Feitoria Quinta da Costa das Aguaneiras 2007 (Douro)
In contrast with Meruge, this single vineyard wine hails from a south-facing site (60% old, mixed vines) and is foot-trodden in lagares.* Ruão describes it as “very Douro.” I love its salty schistous notes, which for me lend freshness and minerality to the region’s wines, here reinforced by a lovely saturation of juicy red and black berry fruit. Lavradores ferment 5-10% in stainless steel to preserve fruit and freshness – nice touch. Very good indeed. 13.5%
*Ruão tells me that his research on extraction in lagares suggests that the chief difference from other fermentation vats is the impact of oxidation, which is higher in lagares (which are shallow and open) than in vat (deeper and more closed). Oxidation elicits different flavours, sometimes more colour and also helps to polymerise (soften) tannins. For this reason, he says you need to be alive to which grape varieties or parcels are better suited to lagares.
Lavradores de Feitoria Tres Bagos Grande Escolha 2007 (Douro)
Deeply coloured, the Grande Escolha is a best barrel selection made from grapes sourced from very old vineyards and fermented in lagares, then barrel. It shows sweeter, gamier fruit and more obvious spice/mocha oak than the Quinta da Costa das Aguaneiras, but has the depth and breadth of flavour to carry the wood with time. Good complexity, layer and structure with some salty minerality to the finish. Will benefit from another couple of years to really hit its straps though it’s perfectly broachable now. The oak has been reigned back over the years so these days, 80% is aged in new and second use barrels for 12-14 months.
Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
(Wines tasted 14 March 2011)
