In 1999 the Amorim family (of cork fame) acquired Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo in the Douro’s Cima Corgo as part of its acquisition of Burmester Port house. Abbreviated to Quinta Nova on labels, which means new farm, within the decade, this immaculate property has undergone a wide-scale renovation and is now making impressive table wines in addition to Port. It also features an hotel which, this year, won the Great Wine Capitals Global Network ‘Best Of’ wine tourism Porto awards for Innovative Wine Tourism Experiences. The well oiled machine that is Quinta Nova is managed by Luisa Amorim. The wines and Ports are imported into the UK by Oakley Wine Agencies.
The vineyard
Returning to wine, the Amorim’s first priority was significantly to extend the vineyard. Planted along the North border of the river Douro for 1.5km and rising to 297m, 85ha of the estate’s steeply sloped 120 hectares are now under vine. It is planted to 15% mixed old vines with substantial younger block (single varietal) plantings as follows: Touriga Nacional (24%), Touriga Franca (20%), Tinta Roriz (17%),Tinta Barroca (11%), Tinto Cão (6%), Tinta Amarela (4%) and Souzão (3%). The youngest vines are 8-10 years old.
Facing south and west, the vineyard (pictured early morning) benefits from the hottest and driest winds, which explains why it has the highest grade A rating for Port production. Though the hot winds can cause stomata to close, ripening is typically precocious and grapes are picked earlier than those from neighbouring quintas.
The winery
Once the vineyards had been renovated, attention switched to the winemaking process. The winery, now schist-clad and cork (of course!) insulated was rebuilt in 2003. With table wines in mind, it is gravity-fed and features stainless steel temperature controlled fermentation vats with automatic pumping over as well as 2 traditional stone lagares and 2 fully automated stainless steel lagares. The underground lodge holds 280 barrels for the top wines and is linked to the central winery through a tunnel that holds all the estate wines.
Hotel, walking trails and museum
During my visit, I stayed in the eighteenth century manor house, which has been sympathetically transformed into a Wine Hotel. Some hotels have a bible in every room but here, the reception is located directly opposite the pretty, tiny chapel, pictured should prayers be in order. Where possible, the hotel uses their own produce, including delicious extra virgin olive oil, jams and herbal teas.
Between 2000 and 2005, several paths (depicted above) were reconstructed which provided me with a rare opportunity to take a quick walk before breakfast. And even more convenient for tourists is Quinta Nova’s pocket-sized museum in Pinhão Train Station.
The wines
Francisco Montenegro, whom I’d met earlier in the week at the Douro4U tasting (see here) is in charge of winemaking, so I wasn’t surprised to discover that the wines are well made. They are glossy and modern in style, the vineyard’s precocity readily apparent in the ripe, supple tannins and the impressive oak mopping concentration of the top wines.
Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo Grainha 2009 – this blend of Viosinho, Gouveio, Rabigato and Fernao Pires is part-fermented for 6 months in oak. It has quite a sweet ripe citrus and vegetal nose, with the smashed green olives I often pick up on Portuguese whites (a positive) balanced by some decent freshness on the finish. Quite weighty, ripe and flavoursome. Well done.
Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo Pomares 2008 – Pomares is the entry level range. This blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinta Roriz is, as you’d expect, quite straight forward and supple with red and black cherry, baked and fresh. Well made.
Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo Colheita 2009 - (Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Cao) – I’m a fan of the trend towards less oaked, indeed unoaked Douro reds like one. It’s a fresh briary wine with juicy damson, a hint of bay leaf and schist’n salt lick minerals. Fine tannins enhance the elegant frame. Very good.
Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo Grainha Tinto 2008 – a blend of Touriga Nacional Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barocca, Touriga Franca, which spends around 15 months in barrel. It’s very juicy, with black berry and cherry fruit, fruit spice (liquorice), some baked cherry too. Very well made.
Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo Reserva 2008 (Tinta Roriz, Tinta Amarela Touriga Franca Touriga Nacional) – less defined and more rustic than the previous two reds, with baked (fig) and leathery notes as well as black cherry and earthy, spicy raspberry edged with feel, menthol/eucalypt notes. OK
Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo Touriga Nacional 2008 – the only single varietal wine because the overall philosophy is that blends work best. Then and again, Quinta Nova has a lot of Touriga Nacional and this wine aims to capture its explosive aromatic qualities, soft tannins and ability to retain acidity, even in hot summers. It sports a heady, orange blossom nose and, in the mouth shows a good weight of sour cherry and chocolate supported by savoury tannins, with dusty minerals on the finish. It’s a little warm and comes in at 15%, but there’s lots to like, maybe too much to like. I still prefer blends for the balance and complexity!
Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo Grande Reserva 2007 – this impressive wine is very deep and inky in hue and, beneath the mocha oak, there lurks a minerality and freshness on the nose. In the mouth, again the oak is rich and savoury with bay leaf hints, but there’s no shortage of concentrated but juicy red fruits and black fruits to mop it up. Nice power, seamlessly delivered. Well done.
Ports
And to round off this report, here are my notes from April’s Big Fortified Tasting on Quinta Nova’s Ports.
Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo Reserve Port – well presented in a tall 50cl bottle (looks like a dessert wine), this is an elegant lifted style with a menthol nose, cassis and bright fresh blackcurrant fruit. Well done, contemporary style.
Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo Late Bottled Vintage Port 2005 – slightly smoky with spicy, black currant and berry fruit; though elegant there’s good concentration, structure and length.
Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
(Wines tasted 19 July 2010)
