Cantina Santa Maria La Palma Aragosta Vermentino di Sardegna DOC, 2003 Sardinia: Aragosta is a spiny rock lobster which, with a dollop of aoili, would team up perfectly with this refreshing, yet ample Vermentino. Dry, vinous and zesty with citrus, green apple, almond and a trace of nougat.
Planeta La Segreta Bianco 2004 IGT Sicilia – this blend of 50% Grecanico, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Viognier, 10% Fiano is internationally styled and won lots of friends with its fruity and floral flavours. With citrus and tropical notes, its finish is as fresh as the proverbial daisy – very well made.
Feudi di San Gregorio, Fiano di Avellino DOCG, 2003 Campania – an intriguing nose of lemon zest with dried honey hints; its intense, vinous palate shows racy zesty flavours together with more ample peach kernal notes and a hint of fennel.
Librandi, Ciró Rosso Classico DOC, 2002, Calabria – made from the Gaglioppo grape, which is said to be the descendant of Krimissa, a wine enjoyed by the winners of the mythical Olympic Games thousands of years ago. The style is very traditional, with marked tannic and acidic asperity and a pale hue, it is reminiscent of pinot noir and very much a food wine. Developed spicy nose with a savoury palate showing brassica and leather.
Azienda Vinicola Francesco Candido Salice Salentino DOC 2000, Puglia – a classic, gutsy Salice Salentino, with 85% Negroamaro; 15% Malvasia Nera. The sour cherry, raisin and spice on the nose follow through on the palate together with delicious bitter chocolate notes – terrific value for money and would be perfect with rich pasta or stew.
Paternoster Synthesi Aglianico del Vulture DOC, 2001 Campania – the Aglianico grape is know as “the Barolo of the South” for it shares nebbiolo’s austere structure in youth with its high tannin and acidity. The complex flavour profile is similar too – inky and spicy (incense) with sour cherry and plum, distinct clove notes on the finish – needs time and food!
Cantina Santa Maria La Palma Cannonau di Sardegna, 2001 – Cannonau is better known as garnacha or grenache and, in Sardinia, it shares the heady nose (red fruits with vanilla) and warm, ample (creamy) palate and dried herb notes of a Colliore from the South of France – seductive.
Planeta Santa Cecilia Nero d’Avola, Rosso di Sicilia IGT, 2002, Sicily – Nero d’Avola is the star red wine grape variety of Sicily – fragrant blueberry and mulberry fruit with vanilla sugar, mocha and dark chocolate notes on the nose and palate – very lush with a hint of bitterness to keep it serious – very good.
Santadi Carignano delle Terre Brune del Sulcis DOC – Superiore, 2000, Sardinia – super-star penologist Giacomo Tachis, creator of Sassicaia, is a consultant at the co-operative of Santadi and it shows in this classy Carignan (with c 5% Bovaleddu). Lovely, expressive nose – violets mingle with gingerbread, vanilla, woodsmoke, mint, plum and blackcurrant. Rich, yet structured palate with ample sour plum and kirsch on the palate, dried herbs, dark chocolate, leather and mint – excellent.
Salvatore Murana Mueggen Moscato di Pantelleria 2002 - Salvatore Murana, a fireman, founded his own estate in 1984 and he sets the standard for this small island’s stunning sweetie. A spicy nose of orange peel, ginger, marmalade and honey deepens on the toothsomely sweet, rich palate which shows musky apricot as well as more refreshing, perfumed ogen melon notes – very good indeed.
All these wines are listed at Alba restaurant in London which has a terrific selection of Gambero Rosso-winning wines; for retail sources try Valvona & Crolla
Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
July 2005
