I simply could not refuse an invitation to join this tasting presented by the estate’s young, dynamic winemaker Axel Heinz. Ornellaia is one of Italy’s leading estates and, having focused on Sangiovese and Chianti during my visit to Tuscany in September, the tasting provided the perfect opportunity to get to grips with Tuscan Bordeaux blends in the form of the eponymous flagship, Ornellaia (typically 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot & 10% Cabernet Franc) also the second label Le Serre Nuove (typically 70% Cabernet Sauvignon & 30% Merlot).
Around 50 vineyard parcels are vinified separately with fermentation principally in stainless steel with a small proportion in oak vats. After a lengthy maceration, the wines are matured for around 15-18 months in French oak.
Axel introduced the tasting by emphasising the difference between the climates of:
- Bolgheri in La Maremma (where Ornellaia is based) and the more traditional, inland regions of Tuscany (Chianti & Montalcino); and
- La Maremma & Bordeaux.
Those of you who attended the Alba Tuscany tasting will recall that La Maremma benefits from warm sea breezes and is lower lying – characteristics it shares with Bordeaux and it is Bordeaux varietals, not Sangiovese, which have made the region famous.
As the tasting demonstrated, with different varieties and a more forgiving climate, vintage reports for Tuscany which focus on the traditional regions are not necessarily representative of Maremma. The 1998 Ornellaia – terrific – made the point well.
The warmer climate of La Maremma produces wines which are most definitely Old World, but which have suppler tannins and a sweeter core of fleshy fruit than classic Bordeaux. Although the vines are relatively young, a telltale mineral note crept into the finish.
In overview, the wines were sumptuous yet refined with excellent balance. Showing extremely well across the board, the 1999, 2001 vintage stood out for power and concentration, while the 2002 looks to be the candidate for early drinking.
Ornellaia 1995 – wide, garnet rim, and developed, gamey, sweet and savoury nose with expressive cherry, cassis and chocolate. Good acidity on the attack followed by a rich core of sweet cherry and cassis, charry notes and a fresh and focused, mineral finish. Very good.
Ornellaia 1997 – ruby with a narrow garnet rim. Perfumed nose with blackberry/currant, herbaceous and mineral hints. The palate is very elegant, with firm but ripe tannins and a core of raspberry, plum and blackcurrant fruit evident as it opened up. Mineral, persistent finish. Very good.
Ornellaia 1998 – great depth of colour, still very youthful; hints of charry toast, tobacco, cassis and mint on the nose which is still quite tight. The palate shows a solid depth of fruit lurking underneath a veneer of oak and held in check by firm tannins. Still very tight; smoky, mineral finish. Excellent.
Ornellaia 1999 – great depth of colour with a much more expressive nose than the 1998 – intense and perfumed with violets, mulberry, cassis, smoke, liquorice and red fruits – very attractive. Plenty of depth of liquorice edged red and black fruits on the “taffeta layered” palate; well balanced acidity and long, minerally finish. Excellent.
Le Serre Nuove 2000 – deep colour, exotic (coconut) cherry and toast nose underscored by an inky, sanguine note. Lovely freshness on the inky palate with blackcurrant, cherry, tobacco and mulberry; the tannins assert themselves on the finish, so good scope for ageing as the long, persistent finish confirms. Excellent
Ornellaia 2000 – great depth of colour, closed nose betrays deep seam of cassis with hints of toast and minerals. The palate is opulently fruity with cassis, a lick of mint, toast and ripe tannins. Very good.
Le Serre Nuove 2001 – good colour; toast, cherry, mulberry and mint mingle on the nose. Great depth of sour cherry fruit with blackberry on the palate with charry oak, smoke, lead pencil and mineral on the long, persistent finish. Excellent structure with ripe, powerful tannins.
Ornellaia 2001 – deep colour with a smoky, exotic toasted coconut nose; very expressive sweet core of fruit (raspberries/cassis) on the palate with toasted coconut and a firm backbone of ripe tannin; great power and concentration – will age beautifully. Excellent.
Le Serre Nuove 2002 – vibrant ruby but paler than its predecessors; very expressive nose with attractive ripe mulberry, raspberry and mint. Very sweet core of succulent fruit, fine grained tannins, quite long finish with sweet, pure fruit and a toasty character. Very approachable. Good.
Ornellaia 2002 – deep plum; exotic nose with toast, cassis, coconut and tobacco; core of sweet fruit – kir/cassis – with soft, supple tannins; inky, floral character – very attractive already. Good.
NB from the 2003 vintage, Petit Verdot will make an appearance (bit part role) in the blend.
Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
December 2005
