This tasting was hosted by John Armit Wines distributor and retailer for both estates.
Gaja
I’d not met Angelo Gaja before – he’s a veritable tour de force with the presence and charisma of Marlon Brando in The Godfather – I’m sure he wouldn’t mind me saying this since he’s partial to using analogies with film stars himself. For Gaja, Cabernet Sauvignon is like John Wayne – a strong personality which dominates the room – “it’s an open book – you’re immediately on the page”. In contrast, his beloved Nebbiolo is like Marcello Mastroianni, shy, ironic – “you have to go to him and when you finally arrive at the page, he never dominates.”
As for the wines – terrific – Gaja’s management of tannins is sublime. He told me that this reflects the practice developed over the last 15 years of picking ripe and macerating early on during the fermentation process, at lower alcohol levels and for shorter periods (alcohol speeds up the extraction of tannins).
Alteni di Brassica Sauvignon Blanc 1998 (magnum) – a developed nose shows lemon oil, toast, smoke and dried herbs; fabulous intensity on the attack, surprisingly broad, verging on tropical fruit on the mid-palate; creamy, toasty finish. Drink up, but complex and enjoyable now.
Camarcanda 2003 – very plush Bolgheri (Tuscan coast) Bordeaux blend (the Gajas purchased the vineyard in 1996). Its supple palate shows blueberry, blackcurrant and toast; a focused finish suggests it should develop well.
Barbaresco 2001 – a gorgeous, subtle, yet insistent wine with superb tannin management and mouthwatering acidity. Its red, black and blue berry fruits show delicate yet intense vanilla, spice and liquorice. Brooding – a keeper!
Barbaresco 1989 (magnum) – beautifully balanced fruit (raspberry, damson), tannin (firm but ripe) and acidity with developed incense spice, sous-bois and game. Monumental.
Sperss 2001 – this is a Barolo in all but name (Langhe Nebbiolo DOC). Rich, brambly fruits surround a firm backbone of grainy tannins; pronounced herb and spice notes include thyme, fennel, cinnamon and liquorice. Very ageworthy.
Sperss 1990 – and here is the proof – the 1990 is a nebbiolo cliché (and I’m not complaining!) – tar, violets and roses seamlessly mingle with still succulent plum and cherry fruit. Gorgeous smudgy tannins (like a soft HB pencil); long mineral finish. Terrific!
Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille 2000 – the Gaja family purchased this Sangiovese vineyard in Tuscany in 1994. A forward, fruity nose of blueberry and vanilla leads onto a commanding palate with rich, briary fruit, incense spice, liquorice and game. Long with well-managed tannins giving firm support.
Tenuta san Guido
Nicolo’ Incisa Della Rochetta introduced his famous wine from Bolgheri Tuscany, explaining that while Sassicaia may be a Cabernet Sauvignon, it does not make it any less Italian. I certainly found that the wine had a velvety richness which distinguished it from most Bordeaux combined with an earthy, mineral character which set it apart from most New World wines. This was equally true of the wines of famous neighbour, Ornellaia, which I recently wrote up – it’s a very seductive combination. That said, I found that, unlike Gaja’s wines, Sassicaia did not live up to expectation.
The Guidalberto was launched in 2000 and is a blend of 45% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Sangiovese aged for around 18 months in French and American oak. It comes from a cousin’s vineyards which abut the Sassicaia vineyards.
Guidalberto 2004 – creamy, bramble and raspberry fruit with a caramelised edge and baked earth undertow.
Guidalberto 2003 – expressive nose of bramble and plum fruit follows through on an attractively fleshy, creamy palate, together with that warm, earthy note. Hint of mint on the firm finish.
Sassicaia 2003 – lush nose with sweet fruit, a touch of herbaceousness and an earthy, mineral seam. Very tight-knit on the palate now.
Sassicaia 2002 – much more forward than the 03; herbaceous notes mingle with cassis, plum and chocolate; super-supple tannins.
Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
May 2006
