I first visited Chile in 2002 and how it has changed! Invited to judge the Annual Chile Wine Awards 2008, my palate was well and truly tickled by a broader, more exciting portfolio of grape varieties, plus a host of new regions already firing on all cylinders as the gold medals attest. Below you will find a list of said gold medal and trophy winners, tasting notes for some of my own competition favourites, together with vinous highlights of the rest of my trip.
In overview, the varieties which excited me most were Syrah from the cooler climes (Elqui, San Antonio, Casablanca), Sauvignon Blanc (especially from Leyda, Limari and Elqui), Carmenere, old vine Carignan from Maule and Viognier. Malbec shows great promise as do the aromatic whites, especially from Cono Sur whose tasting showed that the big guns can do precision – a knock out range from Adolpho Hurtado who won the Awards’ Personality of the Year.
We were shown a significant number of barrel samples so no tasting notes for these but suffice to say that Loma Larga’s Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay showed great promise (racy, finely honed wines), as did Casas del Bosque’s Pinot Noir (the best potential of any tasted), Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. In fact, here is my note of the Pinot Noir Special Selection 2007 sample to give you an idea. A passion and flair for Burgundy shines through in a lifted cherry and beetroot bouquet, fresh cherry and plum palate with sweeter baked cherry notes supported by fine tannins and savoury acidity. One to watch.
Annual Chile Wine Awards Trophy & Gold Medal winners
La Rosa, Ossa Sixth Generation, Red Blend 2004 (Cachapoal) - blending rather than going single varietal pays dividends – this is a poised, classy debut for La Rosa’s new flagship wine. Attractive spicy nose with mellow fruit and a whiff of oak; lovely weight, depth and balance on the palate – Trophy/Gold Red Blend & Best in Show.
Anakena, ONA Pinot Noir 2007 (Casablanca) – I didn’t taste Pinot Noirs during the judging process other than the two Golds to determine the trophy – I feel Chile has yet to fully realise its potential with this variety (in common with other New World countries to be fair). This got my vote for its pretty style – crunchy red cranberry and raspberry fruit with a hint of mint. When we visited the winery after the judging, it transpired that it is blended with small percentages of Merlot, Syrah and Viognier – interesting! Trophy/Gold Pinot noir
Anakena, Roots of the Andes Single Vineyard, Viognier 2007 – (Alto Cachapoal) – Viognier is not the easiest variety to work – takes an age to develop flavour ripeness while the sugars (and it follows alcohol) shoot up. The secret to Anakena’s success with this trim, well fit Trophy winner is harvesting at different levels of ripeness – aromatic with a beautifully balanced palate it has a lovely weight of apricot fruit tempered by fresh and flavoursome greengage; delicate honeysuckle notes make this a bargain basement Condrieu beater. Trophy/Gold Other White
Arboleda, Carménère 2006 (Colchagua) – svelte style with lush blackcurrant and blackberry fruit and a veneer of toasty oak – Trophy/Gold Carménère
Falernia, Alta Tierra, Sauvignon blanc 2007 (Elqui) – lifted nose with passionfruit and mineral, bath salt notes; a powerfully concentrated, persistent palate delivers a charge of passionfruit, asparagus and chalky minerality – really good -Trophy/Gold Sauvignon blanc & Trophy Best Value White
Luis Felipe Edwards, Reserva, Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 (Colchagua) – fresh blackberry and blackcurrant nose and palate with subtle floral hints (gum cistus) and damp earth; nice vinosity – Trophy Best Value Red/Gold Cabernet Sauvignon
Mayu, Reserva, Syrah 2006 (Elqui) – raw, concentrated black fruits nose with smoky bacon notes; lovely mocha edged sweet berry fruit on the palate – savoury, intense style - Trophy/Gold Syrah
Tabontinaja, Gillmore Hacedor de Mundos, Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva, 2005 (Maule) – intense, concentrated blackcurrant with savoury acidity and present tannins; persistent finish – Trophy/Gold Cabernet sauvignon
Garcés Silva, Amayna Pinot Noir 2005 (Leyda) – sweet red cherry with toast, spice and a touch of brassica; a touch “thick” on the palate for me - Gold
Luis Felipe Edwards, Reserva, Carménère 2006 (Colchagua) – nice freshness to the nose and palate with good purity of creamy red, black and blueberry fruit and a touch of smoky oak; persistent finish – Gold
Perez Cruz, Liguai 2005 (Maipo) – minty, fresh blackcurrant and tobacco lined nose and palate; juicy persistent wine with good length and fine tannins - Gold
Viu Manent, Secreto, Carménère 2006 (Colchagua) – chunky style with smoky oak, roasted cobnuts, black berry fruit and ripe tannins; good balance – Gold
Annual Chile Awards – other favourites
Casa Rivas, Reserva, Cabernet sauvignon 2005 – eucalyptus nose with a lovely concentration of blackberry and blackcurrant fruit on the palate; well balanced, persistent wine – Bronze
Luis Felipe Edwards, Terraced Gran Reserva, Carménère 2006 (Colchagua) – LFE have recently planted some truly ambitious (steep, rising to 900m) vineyards which give stunning views over the valley. This wine shows their potential – great fruit purity (blackberry and blackcurrant) nicely supported by spicy oak; balanced, persistent finish – Silver
Misiones de Rengo, Reserva, Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 – very concentrated, tight knit wine with a seam of liquorice edged black fruits waiting to be mined; firm ripe tannins will last the course – Silver.
San Pedro, Castillo de Molina, Reserva, Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 – cassis, wet earth and smooth, pure delivery of blackcurrant and lifted blueberry fruit; nice length – Silver
Las Lomas, Equality Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 – lively bilberry and blackberry flavours with earthy hints and a nice bit of grip. Silver
Terraustral, PKNT Gold, Reserve, Cabernet sauvignon 2006 – massive concentration of cassis with integrated toasty oak; needs time. Silver
Other highlights
Castillo de Molina Sauvignon Blanc Reserva 2007 (Valle de Elqui) – blackcurrant bud, gunflint and green tea make for a complex, flavoursome wine.
Casa Marin Estera Vineyard Sauvignon Gris 2007 (San Antonio) - this variety is a bit part player in white Bordeaux blends where, like its red equivalent, Petit Verdot, it adds a touch of salt and pepper. On its own, it is spicier than Sauvignon Blanc and this is no exception – grapefruit and lychee mingle with mineral and spicy bayleaf notes.
Casa Silva Amayna Sauvignon Blanc 2006 (Leyda Valley) - poised, barrel fermented style with good depth of citrus fruit, lemon oil and sweet talc hints.
Morandé Terrarum Reserva Pinot Grigio 2007 (Casablanca) – my heart tends to sink when offered the faddish Pinot Grigio but this is much more Pinot Gris in style and an accomplished one at that, with rich apricot and orange blossom flavours. Nicely balanced with no trace of oiliness.
Tarapaca Syrah 2006 – meaty style with good spice, grippy tannins and a touch of coffee. Good.
Gilmore Carignan 2007 - 80 year old dry grown Carignan vines ramp up the power but this is about intensity not bulk; tight knit with crunchy, well-defined blackcurrant and blackberry flavours wed to serious tannins – a real food wine and one for the cellar.
Errazuriz Wild Ferment Chardonnay 2006 (Casablanca) – I haven’t tasted this for a while but it’s as good, if not better, than ever – nutty, hazelnut nose cut with fresh lime zest which follows, together with a hint of honey, on a finely balanced, textured palate – good value.
Errazuriz The Blend 2005 (Aconagua) - plenty going on here in terms of aroma, flavour and texture but, much to its credit, it unfurls slowly and engagingly rather than engulfing the senses. Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc, Syrah, Sangiovese and Petit Verdot combine to give juicy plum, cherry, red and black berry flavours with attractive notes of spicy fruitcake spice and tea leaf; well handled, supporting oak adds gravitas.
Errazuriz Kai 2005 (Aconagua) – this, the flagship Carmenere, is dark and intense; tight knit palate of kir and sour plum with an attractive dusty edge. Needs time but lots of potential.
Vinedo Chadwick 2000 (Maipo Alta) – a relatively cool vintage produces a restrained, fragrant Cabernet Sauvignon with plum, mulberry and blackberry as opposed to the more typical blackcurrant flavours. Super supple tannins together with delicate floral and spice notes make for harmonious drinking.
Loma Larga Syrah 2006 (Casablanca) – lovely fruit purity with sappy red and black berry fruits and a twist of freshly ground black pepper. Attractive powdery tannins.
Loma Larga Cabernet Franc 2006 (Casablanca) – svelte yet succulent palate with plum, black cherry and cinnamon supported by fine, powdery tannins.
Matetic EQ Pinot Noir 2006 (San Antonio) – crushed raspberry and cherry with fresh acidity and a mineral core.
Matetic EQ Syrah 2006 (San Antonio) – sensuous, quite exceptional Syrah with lifted floral, white and black pepper aromas which follow through on a lively palate with attractively succulent blackberry.
Anakena Sauvignon Blanc 2007 (Leyda) – crisp, leafy, citrus nose and palate with grapefruit, lemon and a lick of salt – bring on the oysters!
Anakena Ona Viognier Riesling Chardonnay 2007 – I’ve enjoyed previous vintages of this wine so some track record despite being an innovative blend. The Chardonnay provides a gentle backdrop of fruit to the Riesling’s classic bath salts and lime blossom, while the Viognier is no slouch, cutting a dash with refreshing greengage. Very good.
Concha Y Toro Trio Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Cabernet Franc 2007 – deft structured blend over delivers at £6.49 with a lifted, blackcurrant nose and palate with tobacco, spice and pepper – good energy and grip.
Concha Y Toro Terrunyo Carmenere 2005 – Juicy, elegant Carmenere with spicy tobacco and slightly dusty tannins (in a good way).
Concha Y Toro Terrunyo Sauvignon Blanc 2007 (Casablanca) – I’ve always been a fan of this wine – very juicy blackcurrant bud edged gooseberry with plenty of go. Concha Y Toro Maycas del Limari Sauvignon Blanc 2007 (Limari) – dusty, blackcurrant bud/grassy nose leads onto a surprisingly punchy palate with mouth-sluicing citrus flavours and a lick of salt. Interesting and very good.
Concha Y Toro Maycas del Limari Syrah 2005 (Limari) – funnily enough I preferred this debut wine, with its Rhonish smoked meats, black olive flavours and aromas to the more fruit led 2006 tete de cuvee. Another good example of northern Chile’s great potential for Syrah.
Odfjell Armador Carmenere 2005 (Maule/Maipo) – perfumed floral white pepper nose with very juicy damsons and plum fleshing out a firmbackbone of tannin. Very good.
Odfjell Armador Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 (Maipo) – good example of Maipo with its fresh mint nose and tobacco edged fruit; juicy red, black berry and sweet plum flavours and present but ripe tannins make for a layered wine.
Odfjell Orzada Carignan 2003 (Maule) – a coolly restrained nose and elegant palate of stone fruits supported by powdery tannins – very complete.
Odfjell Orzada Carignan 2004 (Maule) – sweeter, riper than the 2003, but nice crunchy blackberry, cherry and bilberry fruit with a wild edge.
Odfjell Orzada Carignan 2006 (Maule) – cool, minerally tight-knit wine with damp earth (in a good way) and a lovely purity of raspberry and blackberry fruit.
Odfjell Special Selection Carignan 2005 (Maule) – the regular Orzada from this vintage shows super-ripe warmer fruit and, I have to say, I much preferred other vintages. This, the best 10 barrels of the 2005 vintage, is unsurprisingly a dense, muscular wine, but it’s well made with good balance and an impressive structure behind its sweet berry fruit.
Undurraga Aliwen Rose 2007 – a fruity, floral and fresh Syrah/Merlot rose from the very sound Aliwen range priced at £5.99.
Undurraga Aliwen Cabernet Syrah 2006 – an exemplary, food-friendly example of this blend whose generous syrah fleshes out the firmer Cabernet.
Undurraga Sauvignon Blanc TH 2007 – the TH – Terroir Hunter – range captures something of the dynamism of Chile’s wine industry. Established in the 19th century, Undurruga has increased its vineyards by 46.6% in the last year and is sourcing grapes from up and coming regions like this Sauvignon from Leyda. A frisky grapefruit nose promises and delivers plenty of freshness with pink grapefruit and lively acidity on the palate. A winery to watch.
Viñedos Organicos Emiliana Coyam 2005 (Colchagua) – accomplished blend of Syrah, Carmenere, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Mourvedre with concentrated red and black fruits, spice and leather with ripe but present tannins.
Vina Porta Veranda Sauvignon Blanc 2007 (Bio Bio) – lively applely wine with spicy tomato plant notes reminiscent of good Touraine Sauvignon.
Vina Porta Agustino Maiten Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (Aconagua) – powerful but well balanced wine delivers oodles of blackcurrant and cassis with a mint edge and charry oak note.
Vina Porta Agustino Malbec Gran Reserva Malbec 2006 (Bio Bio) – vibrant, sappy and succulent black cherry palate with lifted violet notes – moreish wine.
Vina Porta Veranda Pinot Noir 2006 (Casablanca) – crunchy red and black berry fruit and ripe cherry stone flavours cut with nice freshness – very good.
Cono Sur Sparkling (Bio Bio) – this, the first vintage, is a cracker and great value at around £8. Ninety per cent Chardonnay imparts nicely fruity white peach on the attack, 4% Pinot Noir adds a bit of weight and an inspired dash of Riesling runs away with the taste buds giving a citrus, refreshing finish – moreish party fizz.
Cono Sur 20 Barrels Sauvignon Blanc 2007 (Casablanca) – a good example of Casablanca’s powerfully aromatic, fruity style – juicy, mouthfilling gooseberry and passionfruit – if you like good NZ Sauvignon, check this out.
Cono Sur Transition Organic Chardonnay 2007 (Colcahgua) – a superlative Macon’esque unoaked Chardonnay from vineyards in transition to organic. Chimbarongo’s foggy mornings and cold nights make for a restrained, applely nose and palate with nice clarity and a floral, honied edged to the finish.
Cono Sur Riesling Reserve 2007 (Bio Bio) – limey, punchy, petrolly and mouthwatering, this Riesling’s flavour profile sits comfortably with Australia’s Clare Valley, though 7 grams of residual sugar makes for a more forgiving, broader appeal style.
Cono Sur Gewurtztraminer 2007 (Bio Bio) – a lovely,complete wine with delicate orange flower and lychee aromas and flavours; very nicely balanced.
Cono Sur Transition Organic Pinot Noir 2007 (Colchagua) – nice definition of succulent black and red cherry with a hint of cinnamon; refreshing, lively finish – well done.
Cono Sur Ocio Pinot Noir 2006 (Casablanca) – contemplative nose and palate, layered with spicy black cherry, cherry stone and almond – like a very good, modern Burgundy,sadly with a price tag to match – £30 at The Wine Society!
Cono Sur Organic Cabernet/Carmenere 2007 (Colchagua) – very sappy, fresh and direct with succulent black cherry and berry fruit edged with spice.
Cono Sur 20 Barrels Merlot 2006 (Colchagua) – serious, inky Merlot with nice grip and the combination of blueberry lift and spicy fruitcake which, for me, distinguish good Merlot.
Casa Lapostolle Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 (Rapel) – juicy blackcurrant fruit with ripe but present tannins make for a fine understated style – good buy at £6.99.
Casa Lapostolle Cuvee Alexandre Merlot 2006 (Colchagua) – a huge Merlot with the structure (velcro tannins) to match..the 1997 is still going strong so one for the long haul and I reckon worth the wait.
Casa Lapostolle Cuvee Alexandre Syrah 2005 (Cachapoal) – smoky bacon, bay leaf and good fruit purity of black as black fruit make this another keeper with great potential.
Caliterra Sauvignon Blanc Tribute 2007 (Casablanca) – a typically powerful Casablanca nose surprises with its nuanced palate: juicy blackcurrant bud, apple and sugar snap palate with citrus acidity and bayleaf hints. Very good.
Caliterra Chardonnay Tribute 2006 (Casablanca) – like the Sauvignon, this combines more restrained fruit notes than most from Casablanca – pear and white peach – with a silky but fresh texture and well integrated oak.
Caliterra Carmenere Malbec Blend (Limited Release) 2006 (Colchagua) – A seamless swirl of succulent black and red berry fruits with Malbec’s ripe but grainy tannins lending a touch of grip. Well balanced, seductive style with good fruit purity.
Caliterra Cenit 2005 (Colchagua) – an impressive debut for this, the top wine, an unusual, attractively perfumed blend of Carmenere, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Like its siblings, it has an impressive purity and fresh edge to its fruit and tannin, despite weighing in at 15% abv. It really doesn’t need to the heavy bottle to assert its pedigree!
Luis Felipe Edwards Cabernet Sauvignon Top Hill Vineyards 2007 (Colchagua) – High toned, floral nose and palate and distinguished for it. Attractive blackberry and plum flavours complete the picture; persistent, long finish, lovely balance. Excellent value at RRP £8.99
Luis Felipe Edwards Bernada 2004 (Colchagua) – seductive but it doesn’t run away with you or itself. This blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Shiraz, 15% Carmenere and 10% Petit Verdot shows a nice depth of blackberry and blackcurrant fruit on the attack, fleshed out by plummier Shiraz; long focused finish – very good.
Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
January 2008
