Overall, I found alcohol levels at the generic Chile tasting and a subsequent Circle of Wine Writers’ tasting somewhat elevated for my taste for the premium wines – methinks too much super-selected fruit can be a bad thing. My highlights are those wines which I found to be most balanced; they tended to be the cheaper wines, so not all bad news!
Vinedos Organicos Emiliana Novas Chardonnay 2005 – I’m always pleased to find great organic wines and this producer’s Novas range (which I’ve spotted in Fresh and Wild organic supermarkets and is available at www.vintageroots.co.uk) is pretty fab in my book. Even the chardy is well-balanced, fresh and aromatic with subtle biscuit-edged fruit.
Vinedos Organicos Emiliana Novas Winemakers Selection Sauvignon Blanc 2005 – slightly wild nose, pungent fruit with a fresh palate – good.
Vinedos Organicos Emiliana Novas Winemakers Selection Chardonnay/Viognier/Marsanne 2004 – very fruity with musky apricot (and alcoholic warmth) telling you the viognier is boss!
Vinedos Organicos Emiliana Novas Cabernet/Merlot 2004 – the 2003 is rich and chocolate with bay leaf while the 2004 is plush but with more interesting mocha and leafy notes for balance.
Vinedos Organicos Emiliana Novas Winemakers Selection Syrah/Mourvedre 2004 – a spicy, gamey nose and open-knit palate with fleshy, spicy fruit and dark chocolate on the finish – 15% but carries it off.
Vinedos Organicos Emiliana Novas Coyam 2003 – a previous vintage of this wine won top gong for Chilean wines and I can see why – a blend of cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Carmenere, Syrah and Mourvedre it’s no beggar’s muddle. Rather perfumed blueberry and lifted leafy notes combine seamlessly with darker, gutsier notes – textured, balanced and complex and most definitely greater than the sum of its parts.
Casa Marin Cipreses Sauvignon Blanc 2004 – San Antonio is northerly which would suggest hot however, located near the coast it is a cool climate up-and-coming region. It shows in this tight and lean grassy, minerally (flinty) wine – excellent.
Tabali Coquimbo Chardonnay 2003 – another up-and-coming cool climate area close to the ocean and producing a very fresh, balanced style of chardonnay. Citrus flavours mingle with cream and toast; refreshing, brisk grapefruit finish.
Vina Aquitania Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 – lifted nose, bright cassis fruit, mint and a touch of cedar – c£7.00 Noel Young Wines
Vina Aquitania Lazuli Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 – shows its French roots (a Bruno Prats, Paul Pontallier & Ghislain de Montgolfier collaboration) – well-balanced, complex and spicy wine with a vinous texture and developed, savoury edge.
Viu Manent Secreto Carmenere 2004 – lots of chocolate and violet edged black and red fruit; complete, well-balanced wine for around £6.00 I’m told! www.lescaves.co.uk
Miguel Torres Manso de Velasco 2001 – densely structured from very old vine Cabernet Sauvignon – requires a hunk of protein to help you get to grips with the tannins, but plenty of Old World finesse – very ageworthy.
Miguel Torres Cordillera 2001 – An unusual blend of Carinena, Merlot and Syrah: lifted nose, rich red and black fruits with a herbal undercurrent and good structure.
Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
October 2005
