I had completely forgotten that, when I first started work, Beaujolais was the reliable choice for a dinner party for us twenty-somethings, not wildly keen on tannin. One of my bosses always had a bottle of Chiroubles – a Cru Beaujolais – over lunch at El Vinos and very nice it was too. It is the consummate “pretty” wine, floral and silky in equal measure and, to continue the food and wine matching theme, its bright, but not overwhelming, fruit makes it a great lunch or dinner companion.
The trip to Beaujolais underlined these characteristics, but also demonstrated that Beaujolais from the North, with its granitic soils, can butch it up too given a hot vintage (2003) or a more Burgundian approach to winemaking. The opportunity to taste some older vintages of Cru Beaujolais and Beaujolais Villages from top producers amply showed that good Beaujolais really can give mature Burgundy a serious run for its money. The oldest wine I tasted came from the 1990 vintage, but two producers spoke of recently tasting outstanding wines from the 1947 vintage. Working with old vines which yield smaller berries with concentrated fruit, these producers extract more fruit and tannin than usual over a longer maceration period. After a few years, the wines become spicier (incense) and, after a process which the locals refer to as “pinot-ing”, it takes on the gamey, earthy character of red Burgundy (Pinot Noir).
Another first for me this month was Beaujolais Blanc. Made from Chardonnay (vineyards are, after all, in Southern Burgundy), these were a little hit and miss, but there were some stylish wines.
Here are some of the vinous highlights with some overviews of the estates which I visited:
Mommessin, Cuverie de Charentay (Monternot)
Winemaker Julien Sunier previously worked in Burgundy with Nicolas Potel in Beaune and Christian Roumier in Chambolle Musigny. If I say he also worked for 6 months at Bonny Doon in California with the idiosyncratic Randall Grahm, you probably get the measure of Julien. An ambitious, dynamic young man, he is applying Burgundian techniques to his wines, including maturation in newish French oak barriques. The resulting wines show great character and substance, whilst retaining the region’s elegance.
Regrettably plush, seductive wines like his Monternot Morgon Javerniere 2003 have yet to be listed in the UK. Wild red and black berry fruits mingle with fleshier damson and plum; you can feel the tannin, but it’s ripe and velvety! Although 2004 was a more classic vintage, barrel samples showed equal depth and structure. If you’re interested to find out more, it might be worth asking UK agents Bibendum (www.bibendum-wine.co.uk). In the meantime, Julien tells me that in France, the red Crus retail prices are 8.0 to 9.10 Euros, so if you’re Channel hopping, you know what to put on your shopping list!
Chateau Pierreux
Chateau Pierreux Brouilly La Reserve du Chateau 2003 – dark purple, exceptionally fruity with a confit of black fruits, explosive black cherry and liquorice; succulent, but tannins giving structure/grip and balance; mineral hints on the finish.
Chateau Pierreux Brouilly 1990 – garnet suggests its age but the nose and palate is remarkably fresh and fruity, with (tinned) strawberries, spicy tar, a bit of leather and floral notes on the nose; very fruity, yet elegant palate with strawberry and cherry fruit and incense and peony notes. Still very balanced.
Domaine des Hospices de Beaujeu
The ripe 2003 vintage resulted in very complete, sensual wines:
2003 Cuvee des Sires de Beaujeu Regnie – nose of peonies/floral, fresh, wild strawberries; palate very smooth, subtle, spicy, chocolate, floral, wild character.
2003 Cuvee Judith Jonchier Morgon – 40% Cote de Py – rich, chocolate, plum, bit animal, much more tannin, meaty,chocolatev with plum and a spicy, animal character.
2004 Cuvee des Sires de Beaujeu Regnie – much fresher, classic style reflecting the vintage with earthy raspberry, plum and strawberry fruit; a good food wine – £6.99 at Majestic.
Chateau de Vaurenard
The focus here is ageworthy Beaujolais Villages taking advantage of old vines and the granitic soils of Northen Beaujolais. It is a labour of love for Ghislain de Longevialle who virtually sleeps next to his fermentation vats over the three week process, continuously tasting and punching down the cap for 2 weeks, twice a day.
The wines are then aged in old oak foudres (big oak barrels) for micro-oxygenation for a minimum of 6 months before bottling. However, Ghislain only bottles part, keeping the best wines in barrel for up to three years. These are labelled “Baron”.
Ghislain’s wines are exceptionally ageworthy, characterful wines with grippy tannins – it’s well worth visiting the atmospheric cellar for a tasting (www.chateauvaurenard.com).
Ch de Vaurenard Beaujolais Villages 2004 – 6 months in wood – good colour, bright pink, nose quite raw, earthy, stalky hints, dark fruits, liqourice, lots of structure/tannin on palate, very tight, spicy (liquorice) earthy, fruit. Needs time.
Ch de Vaurenard Beaujolais Villages 2002 – 6 months in wood – still bright purple, very fruity, cinammon spice/liquorice nose, lots of structure, spice, gôut de terroir.
Ch de Vaurenard Beaujolais Villages 2001 – 6 months in wood – more developed animal notes mingle with violets and red fruits on nose and palate; elegant, with nice grip on the fresh finish (reflecting a lighter vintage/bigger grapes).
Ch de Vaurenard Beaujolais Villages 2000 Baron – aged 24 months+ in wood – very pretty nose, but good intensity, with fruit, peony and animal notes; wild fruits on the palate with a peppery finish; supple tannins - very classic fruity/floral vintage.
Ch de Vaurenard Beaujolais Villages 1999 Baron – aged 24 months+ in wood – good colour but showing some age; very inky/minerally nose with black fruits/cassis/blackberry, pencil shavings. On the palate, it’s very powerful, although less expressive than 2000; peppery on finish with supple but present tannins.
Ch de Vaurenard Beaujolais Villages 1998 Baron – aged 24 months+ in wood – very developed nose, animal, farmyard (when comes from barrel vignerons say “it’s pinot-ing”) – red fruits underneath; very ample palate, good fruit, lots of spice (incense – sandalwood), good freshness/balance.
Ch de Vaurenard Beaujolais Villages 2003 Superieur – aged 18 months in wood – 14% – very dark colour; the nose is confit of fruit with wild (yoghurt) fruit, black cherry, bilberry and a menthol hint. The palate shows very concentrated wild fruit and terrific depth of palate; very very long, peppery, good structure, support from tannins, very good focus, bit of chocolate, precision/focus – wears alcohol well, peony/ink – excellent.
Dominique Piron
Dominique Piron’s wines are stocked by Fortnum and Mason which gives an indication of their class and style. Minerally and elegant, these are ultra-refined, subtle wines.
Dom. de la Chanaise 2004 Beaujolais Blanc – Leesy, appley nose, honey hints, melon – delicate, fresh style on palate – limestone giving a lemony acidity.
Moulin á Vent 2004 Les Vignes du Vieux Bourg lieux dit - very classic nose, fresh, leafy, elegant, very smooth, silky tannins.
Morgon Cote de Py 04 – vibrant purple, good depth of colour; raspberry/animal nose, which follows through on the palate with cherry, good freshness and structure; very minerally finish.
Chenas Quartz 2004 – good colour, fresh red summer fruits, peonie, very elegant.
Morgon 1999 – deep colour, animal, red fruits, savoury; good depth, animal, cherry, freshness on palate, minerally, peony, bit of chocolate.
Various
Dom Pascal Berthier B’lais Blanc 2002 vv Reserves des 7 pieces (only 15hl) – unoaked, lees ageing/batonnage, very good body, concentration, complexity, 13% – borders Maconnais – broad fruit, golden delicious. Hint of honey. Well balanced.
Dom Robert Perroud Brouilly L’Enfer des Balloquets 2004 – the vines are planted on a steep slope unlike a lot of Brouilly and Perroud hand picks low yielding vines with 70% carbonic maceration to squarely put the emphasis on the fruit. Great depth of colour, quite closed nose; very good fruit purity on palate, super-supple tannins, sweet red and black fruit, viscosity but not alcohol – very ample.
Dom Laurent Gauthier Morgon Cote de Py VV 2004 – deep colour, peppery, earthy nose, palate animal, earthy, good breadth and depth, young, violets, needs time – very good.
Dom Pascal Aufranc Chenas 2003 – Vignes de 1939 – developed nose, animal, red fruits, good structure, this is ageworthy and minerally, this shows real character.
Robert Perroud Brouilly VV 2000 – a selection of old vines, low yielding 20hl/ha, good vintage – good colour, sous bois, very pinot noir but really keeps the fruit too. Ditto on palate, very good depth, structure.
Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
August 2006
