Although it was formed in 1996, it was only following my third visit to Western Australia in 2008 that I learned of the existence of The Great Wine Estates of Western Australia. A collaboration of 12 leading producers (Cape Mentelle, Cullen Wines, Devil’s Lair, Howard Park, Houghton, Leeuwin Estate, Moss Wood, Pierro, Plantagenet, Vasse Felix, Voyager Estate and Xanadu), to date, the GWEWA’s activities have focused on the domestic and Asian markets. As a great admirer of the region’s classically proportioned wines, I was delighted when Andrew Caillard MW, whose Roseworthy thesis focused on Margaret River, agreed to present their wines at the CWW’s annual seminar at LIWF.
Yes we can
In his opening words, Caillard issued a robust riposte to Australian wines’ naysayers when he asserted that, “far from being boring, Australia’s premium wine regions are making some of the most exciting wines of the country’s entire history.” Coming from the Fine Wine Director of Langtons Fine Wine Auctions, it’s fair to say that the man is no little authority on Australia’s premium wines. But if the pudding needed proof, this well-oversubscribed tasting provided it!
The Great Wine Estates of Western Australia concept
Perhaps unsurprisingly for a state responsible for around 5% of the Australian crush, but over 20% of its premium wines, Western Australia accounts for 3 of the 11 top drawer, “exceptional” wines in Langtons Classification of Australian Wine. They are Cullen Diana Madeline Cabernet/Merlot, Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay and Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon. Authored by Caillard, the Classification is based on track record on the secondary market, updated every five years and widely regarded as a benchmark of Australia’s finest wines.
Nonetheless, when Langtons co-founded the GWEWA initiative in 1996 with David Hohnen (then CEO of Cape Mentelle), Caillard felt that both Western Australia, an isolated state, and Cabernet Sauvignon, somewhat overshadowed by Shiraz, deserved championing. The GWEWA’s activities include tastings and an en primeur campaign.
As with Langtons Classification, inclusion in the GWEWA was originally based on a presence and track record on the secondary Australian wine market and, it follows, on the top-performing ultra-cuvee wines. For this reason, membership has focused on Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet blends, Chardonnay and, latterly, Plantagenet’s Shiraz. Caillard explained that, over time, it had become clear that this was Plantagenet’s stronger suit.
The objective
Presenting a line-up of 24 wines, with a museum and new release from each winery (wines listed below), Caillard explained that the aim of the masterclass was:
- to give an overview of the regional influences on the wines (climate, soil and topography); and
- through the tasting, to give voice to the diversity of place and winemaking philosophy represented by the GWEWA’s individual members.
The older museum releases provided a useful snap shot of the impressive ageing potential of the wines.
Some insights
Information about each producer and region together with links to their websites can be found at the GWEWA website at www.greatwineestatesofwa.com.au – this report picks out some of the fascinating insights Caillard provided into the region and its leading producers.
Margaret River: diverse terroir: unlike Great Southern, Margaret River comprises one Geographical Indication area with no sub-divisions. Likened to Pomerol in a dry vintage, the region’s pronounced maritime influences produce an unusually even accumulation of warmth, resulting in a long growing season. Nonetheless, Caillard identified three broad, (unofficial) sub-regional divisions in Margaret River, (subsequently reinforced by the tasting):
- The south between Margaret River and Karridale (Cape Mentelle, Devil’s Lair, Leeuwin Estate, Voyager Estate and Xanadu) – a cooler climate is particularly well suited to whites and produces sinewy Cabernets with bramble and dark chocolate – St Estephe to Wilyabrup’s Pauillac; soils are predominantly lateritic gravelly loamy sands and sandy loams.
- The central area around Wilyabrup (Cullen, Howard Park [also in Great Southern], Moss Wood, Pierro and Vasse Felix) – warmer, sunnier conditions produce generous, powerful reds of Pauillac-like stature and richness; predominantly gravelly loams, but some gritty sandy loams and granitic gravels. Caillard noted that several producers outside this sub-region blend in Wilyabrup fruit for extra flavour and richness.
- The north around Yallingup – slightly cooler than Wilyabrup but with similar soils, producing robust, well-structured reds.
Great Southern sprawl: Australia’s largest wine region at 150km by 100km, with five official sub-regions. Like Margaret River, it was founded in the 1960s. It is Western Australia’s coolest wine-growing region, with a climate compared with Medoc, though it varies according to proximity to the coast:
- Denmark and Albany – the southern-most, maritime influenced sub-regions with higher rainfall; south west winds help to concentrate the fruit and mitigate disease.
- Mount Barker, Porongurups and Frankland River - inland vineyards with more continental climates, higher elevations and significant diurnal temperature variation.
Soils are derived from granitic and gneissic rock, mostly laterite gravelly loams or sandy loams.
Diverse philosophies: describing Moss Wood’s Keith Mugford and Cullen’s Vanya Cullen as the king and queen of Margaret River, whose “first growths vie for pole position,” Caillard contrasted their different personalities. Mugford, a very scientific, focused winemaker, Cullen, a big thinker, influential in the show system and, with “almost religious fervour,” sustainability as, he observed, is so readily apparent from the life and health of her biodynamic vineyard. Describing Howard Park as the Penfolds of Western Australia, Caillard explained that its multi-regional philosophy (Abercrombie is a Great Southern/Margaret River blend) engendered a house style typified by an intense concentration of chocolate and berries. Caillard cited Howard Park’s founder, John Wade (the winemaker behind Wynns John Riddoch) as a real catalyst for great Cabernet in Great Southern.
Burgundian not Bordeaux production levels: though climatically and varietally Margaret River and Great Southern bear resemblance to Bordeaux, production levels for the GWEWA are minute in comparison. Wines from the 1970s are a real rarity.
Gin gin – a natural advantage: Caillard identified Western Australia’s gin gin clone as key to the region’s naturally balanced Chardonnay style. Prone to “hens and chickens” (millerandage), normal sized berries (hens) provide a richness of fruit, while small berries (chickens) account for its characteristic long bead of natural acid and “al dente texture.” With age, as evidenced by all three Chardonnays, the palate fleshes out, with Pierro and Devil’s Lair more forward than the Leeuwin Estate’s Art Series – with Giaconda, Australia’s most fine boned and long lived Chardonnay, thanks to its “indelible acidity.” Bottling under screwcap is now enhancing wines’ longevity.
Margaret River –v- Coonawarra Cabernet: Caillard ventured that Coonawarra has come on in leaps and bounds in the last four years, overcoming issues of labour and pruning (due to its remoteness). At the highest level, he believes that one is not better than the other but, for premium wines, Margaret River is generally better and Coonawarra performs more strongly at the commercial end. For him the key difference between the two regions relates to tannin structure. Coonawarra Cabernets show a plume of mouth-filling tannins to the finish in their youth while Margaret River wines show firmer tannins.
New grapes on the block: Malbec and Petit Verdot are increasingly present as bit part players in Bordeaux-style blends, lending perfume, colour and a fleshiness to the mid-palate.
And new blood: a change in winemaking regime is ushering in yet higher standards at Vasse Felix (Virginia Wilcox), Devil’s Lair (ex-Yattarna winemaker Oliver Crawford), Cape Mentelle (former Hardy’s winemaker Rob Mann) and Plantagenet (ex-Cape Mentelle winemaker John Durham). At Xanadu, renewed form reflects a return to family ownership under the Rathbone family (also owners of Yering Station in the Yarra Valley, Mount Langi Ghiran in the Grampians and Parker Coonawarra Estate), with an intense focus on tannin management. At Cullen, Caillard describes Vanya Cullen’s right hand man since 1996, winemaker Trevor Kent, as one of the finest winemakers in the country.
The tasting
These are my tasting notes with Andrew Caillard’s observations in brackets.
Devils Lair Chardonnay 2007 (Margaret River) – nose of fresh pear and grapefruit with hints of hazelnut; in the mouth racy acidity makes for a zesty, vibrant mouthful of lemon, grapefruit and pear. Subtle texture and underlying oak. (One to watch following the arrival of ex-Yattarna winemaker, Oliver Crawford)
Devils Lair Chardonnay 2004 (Margaret River) – developed (attractive) vegetal nose. Good weight of pear, vanillin, toast and nougat cut with fresh, persistent acidity.
Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay 2006 (Margaret River) – pale with green glints. A tightly wound nose and palate shows nut-edged pear skins and juicy melon. A baby (though Caillard reckons it’s unlikely to be as long-lived as previous vintages because 2006 was cool with rain).
Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay 2002 (Margaret River) – with a few years under its belt has fleshed out on nose and palate. Lovely volume and freshness with white and yellow peach, underpinned by oak and persistent grapefruity acidity, both supporting a super-long finish.
Pierro Chardonnay 2006 (Margaret River) – though rich and creamy in weight and texture, it has a tight citrus core of lemony, grapefruity acidity – length and breadth. Lipsmacking. (Unofficially organic; in general, a medium term keeper, peaking at around three years, rarely lasting more than six).
Pierro Chardonnay 2005 (Margaret River) – the creamy notes come to the fore here, with toasted hazelnuts; a weightier, immediately satisfying wine from a warmer vintage.
Cullen Diana Madeline 2005 (Margaret River) – ripe, lifted red cherry to the nose, follows through on the palate together with vibrant cassis and plum; dried sage beneath. Finely wrought with seamless tannins; long and persistent. Fresh as a daisy feel to it.
Cullen Diana Madeline 1995 (Margaret River) – richer, riper nose and palate with developed tarry notes and a touch of blood to its sweet, plush plum and more authoritative black currant and berry fruits core. Fine grained tannins and good balancing freshness support a long finish. (Regarded as one of the finest Australian wines of its era, Vanya Cullen was at the forefront of focusing on tannin ripeness, not just fruit ripeness).
Vasse Felix Heytesbury Cabernet Shiraz 2005 – herb (dried sage) edged concentrated black and red berry fruits with a dash of balsamic flesh out a firm tannic backbone; young. (Recently there has been a shift away from Shiraz towards the classic Bordeaux varieties, also towards Margaret River while previously the Heytesbury was a blend of the best parcels from anywhere).
Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 (Margaret River) – a difficult, cool vintage for reds but a sure hand and light touch at the tiller here. Very pure cassis and creamy red fruits, fine tannins and lovely freshness. Polished, bright wine.
Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 (Margaret River) – an excellent, warmer vintage and a throatier wine, deeper in hue and timbre. Shows a ripe core of chocolate, tar and tobacco edged cassis framed by muscular tannins. Very ageworthy.
Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 (Margaret River) – dried herb (sage again) clad cassis with firm, sinewy tannins; quite tightly coiled now, needs time. (Now includes a dash of Wilyabrup fruit, adding flavour/richness, while maintaining its hallmark fine, sinewy tannins).
Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 (Margaret River) – much more forward and fruity with a lick of balsamic; mineral notes to the finish, tannins a touch dry.
Xanadu Limited Release Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 – inky, deep hue with concentrated cassis, some chocolate and bright as a button blackberry and currant fruit; fresh and persistent with powdery tannins. (One of the most exciting 2007s – a winery to watch following the Rathbone takeover).
Xanadu Limited Release Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Franc 1996 – developed with a rich melange of flavours – bayleaf, spicy currant/blackcurrant, chocolate, cedar and plum; good length.
Voyager Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2004 (Margaret River) – very polished performer as always with concentrated spicy berry, balsamic and a lovely purity of blackcurrant at its core; ripe but present tannins, long and persistent. (A superb estate with a relatively moderate secondary market profile, adding a dash of Wilyabrup fruit these last three or four years).
Howard Park Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 – a fragrant cedar and blackcurrant nose leads onto a rich, glossy palate with exuberant red and black fruits and chocolatey tannins; well-crafted, poised wine with lots of ready appealbut will go the distance.
Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 1998 – developed, savoury wine with a minty edge to its black fruits.
Houghton Jack Mann Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 – super-exuberant, well-defined blackcurrant and berry fruit, very youthful/virile – iron fist in velvet glove with a firm supporting act tannin-wise. Impressive – demands patience. (A single vineyard wine from Frankland River in Great Southern, planted to original “Houghton” cuttings, it is producing some of the country’s most exciting Cabernets; renowned for its ageability – 20 years plus – it is released after three to four years’ ageing. 2007 is an astonishing vintage – one to watch.)
Houghton Jack Mann Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 - a little further on the journey this is big and bold, positively rippling with eucalypt-edged cassis wed to a firm backbone of tannin. With well-balanced acidity it also promises a long life ahead.
Plantagenet Shiraz 2003 (Great Southern) – a savoury, meaty style with herb sausage, sweet blood plum and smudgy tannins; lacks a bit of fruit weight/concentration. (Western Australian Shiraz tends not to have as much “stuffing” as South Australian counterparts; John Durham, winemaker since 2007 is working in a fresher idiom that sensitively reflects Great Southern’s cooler conditions).
Plantagenet Shiraz 1993 (Great Southern) – pongy, gamey nose – salty iodine character; a rustic Cornas quality so interesting but a tad feral.
Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
12 May 2009
