From 21 July, Foster’s EMEA Limited became Treasury Wine Estates EMEA (TWE). It’s the latest development in a story which started with the acquisition of Mildara Blass and Rothbury Wines Limited in 1996, Beringer Wine Estates in 2001 and Southcorp Limited in 2005. Comprising 12,000 hectares of vineyards, 20 wineries and 50 wine brands, TWE’s portfolio includes some of Australia’s most popular and collected wines as well as wines from California, France, Italy and New Zealand.
Even so, for Fosters Group, wine has proved less profitable than beer and the industry giant had considered selling its wine business - the annoucement suggests a repositioning of the business as a seller of premium wines. For Managing Director, Peter Jackson, “The new name and brand identity reflect the wealth of treasured wine brands that mark the core of this business” and “does not pre-empt any outcome for our demerger, nor does it represent fundamental change in our business model. It does, however, represent the acceleration of a cultural change for those of us working in the wine business as we return to a dedicated focus on viticulture, wine making and the marketing and sale of one of the world’s most outstanding portfolios.”
I spent an afternoon at TWE’s Twickenham tasting room (pictured) a couple of weeks ago to explore the treasure chest. Here are some of the gems I discovered (Wynns wine tasted in May with Sue Hodder at London Wine Fair). For recent tasting notes on Penfolds’ latest release icon and luxury brands, click here and here for notes on other thrilling Wynns John Riddoch vintages (2004 and 1982).
Wolf Blass White Label Specially Aged Release Chardonnay 2003 Adelaide Hills – a developed yellow/gold colour, though the nose shows lively pink grapefruit/ripe citrus which follows through on the attack. The palate then broadens, showing autolytic savoury sourdough/marmite and smoky cashew to the finish. The Hills’ acidity is alive though! Interesting and way different from the rest of the range.
Wolf Blass Grey Label Cabernet Sauvignon Langhorne Creek 2005 – my pick of the range, with Langhorne Creek’s attractive fleshiness, it shows eucalpyt, lovely succulent black cherry, blackcurrant and glossy cassis with a savoury undertow. Long, well balanced finish. Very good. £21.99 at Gondola Wines.
Wolf Blass Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2005 – this, the 33rd vintage, is made with fruit from the Barossa Valley, Langhorne Creek and McLaren Vale. It shows a great depth of vanilla-edged cassis fruit with powerful, ripe tannins and a seductive, velvety mouthfeel. Long, balanced and textured. Very good.
Wolf Blass Platinum Label Shiraz 2006 (Barossa) – a deep, vivid purple hue foreshadows the exuberant, super-concentrated and confident black-fruited palate, but there’s minerality and line too. I detected just a touch of heat to the finish, still very good.
Penfolds Koonunga Hill Autumn Riesling 2008 (Barossa) – this new release is a blend of Eden Valley and Barossa fruit, with a touch of Gewurztraminer. As you’d expect, it’s an aromatic wine with the Gewurtz well evident on the musky yet pretty rose petal nose; quite open textured – more lychee than lime – there’s a pithy, spicy Gewurtz lift in the tail. An attractive wine – would be great with Vietnamese fresh spring rolls and the like. Waitrose/Majestic c. 8.99
Penfolds Thomas Hyland Chardonnay 2009 (Adelaide Hills) – creamy, ripe and peachy with juicy, perfumed melon too – nice balancing freshness make this lees-aged and stirred French oaked Chardy a very accomplished wine at around £10.
Penfolds Bin 311 Tumbarumba Chardonnay 2006 (Tumbarumba) – as its single GI source suggests, this is quite a singular style with leesy, marzipan/nutty notes softening its juicy, lemony cedar-dusted palate. Good/interesting.
Penfolds Bin 23 Pinot Noir 2009 Adelaide Hills – another inaugural release – shows sweet juicy plum, chocolate and earthy beetroot, so plenty of varietal typicity if a little solid. Good effort.
Penfolds Bin 138 Shiraz Mourvedre Grenache 2008 (Barossa Valley) – a rich, red fruited nose with Barossa warm earth. A great example of the genre with spicy plum and black cherry fruit amply supported by textured tannins. Very broachable now but will keep 10-15 years. Very good.
Penfolds Koonunga Hill Seventy Six Shiraz Cabernet 2008 – underneath a vanilla veneer lurks ripe cherry, red and black, which provides ample flesh to a sinewy backbone of tannins. Good.
Penfolds Thomas Hyland Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 – really good intensity and depth with fleshy black cherry, dark cassis and savoury black olive – a good reflection of its Limestone Coast (Coonawarra/Robe) and Fleurieu Peninsula (Langhorne Creek , McLaren Vale) roots. Ripe rolling acidity carries a long finish with warm earth and cigar notes. Very good.
Saltram Metala Langhorne Creek Shiraz Cabernet 2005 – on song, really drinkable now with a mint-streaked vinous (beyond primary but still pure/clean) fleshy nose and palate and a mineral undertow.
Saltram Mamre Brook 2005 (Barossa) – a deep, dark yet balanced and characterful nose and palate of red and black fruits with savoury, earthy notes. Nice length and weight. Good.
Saltram No. 1 Shiraz 2002 (Barossa)– the flagship Shiraz shows plenty of lift on nose and palate – menthol and spice, with mint, eucalypt, liquorice and carraway seed. Generous in structure and intense on flavour, it’s an earthy, powerful wine with a long, spicy, satisfying finish. Very good.
Wynns Johnsons Block Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 (Coonawarra) – each year, Wynns select a different block for a special release in order to show off that parcel’s specific character. The oldest fruit from Johnson’s Block dates back to 1925 when the vineyard was established. Interestingly, the Shiraz and Cabernet are co-fermented because, since 2003, they’ve ripened together (they used to ripen around 2 weeks apart!) This is bright ruby in colour and, in the mouth, shows nice flesh and line with vivid red cherry fruit supported by sinewy fruit tannins. For Hodder the challenge is “not to be sweet and plummy” – result then! Very good.
Wynns Michael Shiraz 2003 (Coonawarra) – the first since 1998 on account of a vineyard renovation (see my report here for more details).A bright briary nose has plenty of oomph behind it with vivid blue, red and black berry fruit with liquorice, bay leaf and mocha oak. Powerful, ripe tannins lend ample support. Very good.
Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 1994 (Coonawarra) – really concentrated and very well structured with dried herbs, red and black berry and currant fruit still cleaving quite tightly to firm bony tannins. Finely drawn, still wonderfully fresh with great restraint its coiled tension puts me in mind of a Jancis comment about Napa Cabernet being like a tennis match between the herbs and fruit. Excellent. Hodder says no-one thought much of this vintage at the time but it has really come around with time. I agree!
Wynns Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 (Coonawarra) – a deep inky purple with a classic nose and palate of blackcurrant with a touch of wet earth. Youthful, tight and bright – will benefit from a couple of years in bottle and keep 10 years plus plus. (See my report of a vertical tasting to celebrate Black Label’s 50th birthday here). Very good.
Annies Lane Riesling 2009 – very limey, more linear than the Penfolds with mouthwatering acidity and talc and salty to the finish. Well done racy style. Coppertrail 09 was even racier, very tight now. Needs a year or so to unbutton.
Annies Lane Shiraz 2007 (South Australia) – a deep colour with a good spicy concentration and length of juicy blackcurrant. Well made.
Rosemount Chardonnay Show Reserve Hunter Valley 2006 – long on the palate with ripe but restrained fruit salad, rolling acidity and a complexing leesy struck match quality to the finish. Good.
Seppelt Sparkling Shiraz 1987 – an intriguing nose shows spicy tiger balm and linseed oil which left me totally unprepared for the fresh and lively acidity and bead which animates this developed savoury Shiraz giving structure to its bloody, leathery, linseed and chocoalate edged cassis and blackberry fruit. A fun palate tickling and teasing finale!
Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
(Wines tasted 13 July 2010; Wynns wine tasted 19 May 2010)
