Thanks to last September’s Landmark Tutorial fortified masterclass (reported here), I knew that Seppeltsfield was an oasis of jaw-droppingly good fortified wines – the best Australian tawnies that’ve passed these lips.
A grand scale
However, until Wednesday’s visit, I’d failed to appreciate the lofty scale on which this palm-tree lined 500 acre estate was conceived. It was established by the Seppelt family 160 years ago, in 1851, who remained in ownership until 1985. Family members still have the right to be interred in the neo-classical mausoleum (pictured).
The sprawling 19th century HQ features a naturally-lit, gravity-fed fermentation shed (pictured), home to a cascade of no less than 110 five to six ton fermenters, an old still house, bonded warehouse, Victoriana offices with brass fittings and sloping wooden clerks’ desks and, of course, acres of barrel cellars which put me in mind of Blandys’ similarly cavernous Lodge in Funchal, Madeira.
By the turn of the 20th Century it was Australia’s largest winery, producing 2 million litres annually. Back then, the portfolio was dominated by fortified wines, not just so-called Ports (Vintage and Tawnies), but also Sherries (Apera), Madeira, Vermouth, cordials and the like (pictured).
Modern history
Following the Second World War, a new wave of immigrants fuelled the demand for table wines which, by the 1950s, had become more popular than fortifieds. Today table wine production at Seppelt substantially exceeds that of the fortified wines.
Nonetheless, The Seppeltsfield Estate Trust who acquired Seppeltsfield in 2007 from Fosters aim to ensure that fortified wines remain at the heart of operations. Table wines are separately branded under the Glenpara label.
According to my host, Wine Business Manager Matt Head, the undulating vineyards are broken down into blocks and the absolute best grapes from north-facing slopes are ear-marked for table wines. Which is not to say that the grapes going into fortifieds lack concentration.
Far from it. Head reckons that the Barossa’s signature fruit power puts it “streets ahead” of the competition Down Under (including Rutherglen) when it comes to Tawny styles of which Shiraz, Grenache (old vines pictured) and Mataro/Mourvedre are the backbone, also Apera (the new name for Sherry styles). And with reduction by evaporation in barrel averaging around 3% per annum, Seppeltsfield fortifieds are outstanding in their concentration, intensity and complexity.
The proof in the pudding…
Apera styles
Seppeltsfield Flora Palomino Pale Dry DP117 – sourced from 40 year old Palomino vines and aged for an average seven years in oak under flor, it shows a concentrated, tight palate whose nutty core is animated by ozone/seaweed, apple core, citrus zest and lifted jasmine notes. Good palate presence.
Seppeltsfield Clara Blanca Palomino Aged Dry Amontillado DP 116 – this sweeter style typically solera-aged for around 16 years (without the protection of flor) is radically different from cheaper fodder a.k.a. “nana’s nip.” A reddish, golden hue it’s hugely concentrated on the palate with savoury, rancio smoked almonds enlivened by a streak of citrus acidity giving it the body and intensity to work well with strongly flavoured dishes like grilled mackerel or sardines.
Seppeltsfield Paramount Collection XO Dry Amontillado – a russet hue, the XO wines under the Paramount range represent the top of the tree. The Amontillado is typically solera aged for 40 years. Correspondingly, it’s more high toned, concentrated and complex – a real tour de force with its salty nose, sharp apples, ozone, fat smoked almonds, nam pla and a hint of paraffin wax. It finishes very long and salty and, though sherrified, there’s a lingering sense of fruit. Terrific.
Seppeltsfield Rare Rich Oloroso DP 38 – composed of solera aged Grenache and Palomino wine averaging 20 years in age but with components dating back to 1960. Its taffeta layers of pungent, waxy citrus, sweet toffee apple and walnut are brilliantly balanced and extended by a lively, rapier-like, streak of acidity, which carries a long, lingering finish with a lick of salt. Perfect for blue cheese.
Seppeltsfield Paramount Collection XO Rich Oloroso – Palomino and Grenache is solera-aged for an average of 40 years. With outstanding penetration of flavour, it builds on the palate, with layers of russet apples and sweet dried fruits wed to a tight, smoky, nutty spine. A long, linear reverberating finish suggests there’s much more to come if you have the time to linger over a glass!
Tawny styles
Seppeltsfield Cellar No 7 Tawny – made from Shiraz and Grenache aged on average for five years this has a fleshy, fruity mid-palate of fresh dates and a spicy, dry finish.
Seppeltsfield Para Grand – significantly older components here (Shiraz, Grenache & Mourvedre), averaging 15 years old, bring lovely depth and layer to the nose and palate. The emphasis is on dried fruits, with candied orange peel, blanched almonds, sweet cinnamon and darker rum and raisin/fruitcake notes. Luscious, yet well balanced, long and lingering. Deeply satisfying, whilst retaining poise.
Seppeltsfield Para DP90 – this blend of Shiraz, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvedre is aged on average for 20 years. It’s drier and more spirity than the Para Grand with a great intensity of fruitcake flavours fleshing out a long, dry walnutty spine.
Seppeltsfield Paramount Collection XO Tawny – though the blend components average 40 years in age, some is as much as a century old. This eye-catching deep reddish hued wine is possessed of a sigh-inducing nose and palate. Concentrated, smooth, rich and nutty, think marzipan, it’s lush, sexy and seamlessly infused with perfumed dried apple and heady sweet cinnamon and star anise notes. Beautifully integrated spirit contributes to an incredibly long, palate-cleaving yet balanced palate. Fabulous.
Seppeltsfield Para 1989 21 Year Old Tawny – this vintage dated tawny gets the pick of the bunch in terms of grapes (Shiraz and Grenache) and, like a Colheita Tawny Port, it’s focused, edgier and generally less obviously out to please. But it’s got real force of personality with its muscovado-sugar edged fresh dates and refined and fresh integration of calvados/cognac spirit.
1911 Seppeltsfield 100 Year Old Para – I had the good fortune to taste the remarkable 1910 at the Landmark Tutorial last year. The 1911, which was released this February, did not disappoint! On the nose it shows terrific lift and depth of cinnamon and clove spice, with dark treacle toffee/molasses notes. In the mouth, despite the viscous mouthfeel, its heady concentration of dried and incense spice brings animation and lift. There’s a fleshier savoury dimension too with black olive and tamarind notes. Wonderful palate presence throughout and throughout is to be measured in minutes not seconds!
Rutherglen Muscats
The Seppelt family’s reach extended beyond South Australia. In 1914, they acquired the Hamilton Clydeside Cellars - Rutherglen’s first winery (est 1861). Though (obviously) the fruit is still sourced from Rutherglen, since 1983, the wines have been aged at Seppeltsfield.
Seppeltsfield Cellar No 8 Muscat – floral, raisined notes to nose and palate which is fleshed out with sweet, rich medjool dates. More viscosity and sweetness than the tawnies. Lush.
Seppeltsfield Cellar Grand Muscat – darker with rum and raisin, dark chocolate and fleshy medjool dates. Positively unctuous.
Seppeltsfield Paramount Collection XO Muscat – a much deeper, browner mahogany colour thanks to being aged on average for 40 years. So viscous it sits in the mouth, exuding flavour and sweetness and enveloping the tongue initially with layers of dark toffee and medjool dates, then sweet and sour chicory and spicy tamarind. Compelling stuff!
Rutherglen Tokay/Topaque flight
Seppeltsfield Cellar No 6 Tokay – a reddish hue with Muscadelle’s classic peach tea and herb notes. Some rooibos tea here too. Fresher, drier with a more savoury dimension than the Muscats.
Seppeltsfield Cellar Grand Tokay – darker and much more concentrated with chicory, camp coffee, molasses and kalamata olive on a layered and savoury palate. Balanced, fresh finish.
Seppeltsfield Paramount Collection XO Tokay – a very dark, deep colour as well it might be given its most aged component dates back to 1922. In the mouth it’s super-intense with straw nestled dates and waxed fruit wrappers on the nose. In the mouth it’s much deeper and darker; concentrated caramelised sugars and molasses notes make for a slow and unctuous delivery of great power and lingering intensity.
Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
(Wines tasted 13 July 2011)
