At last year’s Big Fortified Tasting I focused on wines from individual Rutherglen producers’ stands (Campbells, Stanton & Killeen and Buller Wines, reported here). At this year’s tasting I made a selection from Wine Australia’s multi-producer stand instead – Rutherglen’s producers still stood out and De Bortoli put in a solid couple of Riverina wines.
Here are my highlights:
Pfeiffer Wines Rutherglen Topaque NV (Rutherglen)
Golden yellow, a freshness to its pretty nose with peach tea (very focused on the fragrant tea leaf) and hints of nuts and caramel. In the mouth it’s finely wrought with lingering, delicate peach, peach tea, caramel and nuts/almonds. Very good.
Pfeiffer Wines Rutherglen Muscat NV (Rutherglen)
Again, strikes a delicate note, though there’s no lack of intensity to its classic Muscat nose and palate with floral notes, raisins, orange peel, caramelised oranges and toothsome caramel. Long, lingering and balanced. Very good.
Chambers Rosewood Vineyard Rutheglen Muscat NV
Pale amber, very floral on the nose with Muscat-like turkish delight. In the mouth it’s very delicate yet intense with an orange blossom water quality to gently raisined palate and a long, lingering fine finish. Very good.
Chambers Rosewood Vineyard Rutherglen Grand Muscat NV
Much greater depth of colour (bright amber with a saffron rim) and flavour yet with impeccable balance. A toffeed nose and palate has a lovely woody timbre to its delicious sweet and savoury dried fruits and spice. It continues to build in the mouth finishes very long and intensely spicy. Excellent.
All Saints Estate Rutherglen Grand Muscat NV (Rutherglen)
Deep mahogany with dates and raisins on the nose. In the mouth it’s unctuous – dark and thick, with dates, muscovodo sugar and spice. Big and delicious if not subtle!
De Bortoli Show Liqueur Muscat (Riverina, NSW)
A very different style – more savoury, rancio and viscous. It’s much deeper in colour than the Pfeiffer, with a a dark amber core and yellow/green rim. The nose has a chutney-like edge of volatile acisity which brings complexity and lift to its core of spicy plump raisin fruit.
De Bortoli Old Boys 21 Year Old Tawny (Riverina, NSW)
A bright, inviting reddish brown hue with a yellow rim. In the mouth it’s very spicy, long and lingering with earthy saffron, and turmeric, date chutney, sweeter toffee apple and woody nutty notes. Good.
See here and here for other regional reports on Australian fortified wines.
Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
(Wines tasted 6 April 2011)
