Sarah Ahmed – The Wine Detective

Cousins Michael Hill-Smith MW and Martin Shaw started making wine together in the Adelaide Hills under their Shaw & Smith label in 1989.  The wines were initially made at Wirra Wirra, then Petaluma until they established their own winery in “the Hills” in 2000.   And an impressive outfit it is too as I well recall from my visit in 2004, with a great cellar door and tasting room should you be in the vicinity.

Then, Michael showed us around and, at that time, he and Martin had question marks about screwcap and natural yeasts.  They also still made a Merlot.  Five years on since my visit but 20 years on from when they started out, the Merlot has disappeared (Michael cheerfully admits “we were demented”), screwcap is most definitely here to stay (and is being introduced for magnums too) and the majority of the Chardonnay is fermented with natural yeasts.  All in all, I’d say Shaw & Smith strike right at the heart of the Australian spirit – rigorous in their approach to winemaking yet open-minded and, as this tasting showed, with the results to match.

For Michael, the secret to their success has been (and remains) “refining and specialising.” Though he says “people tell us we’re very self-assured and have a clear idea and focus, when we make a mistake, we are quick to admit it.”  No better opportunity than a series of mini-verticals to explore the evolution of their wines.

Sauvignon Blanc 2009 – enjoyed as a pre-tasting aperitif rather than as part of the formal tasting so not my most detailed notes (!), but fine, chalky and herbaceous with well-integrated natural acidity and good line. RRP £11.99, stockists Liberty Wines

This variety was the starting point for their Adelaide Hills’ vision, focused on cool climate wines, so perfect to kick off the event with a particularly refined example from a cool year.  Michael describes it as a fabulous vintage.   A heat spike over several days in late January caused significant damage for warmer, more advanced regions like the Barossa and McLaren Vale, with some reporting 60-70% losses but, in the slower ripening Adelaide Hills, the Sauvignon grapes were still green and hard pre-veraison.  Undamaged, they enjoyed cool days and nights.  Michael reckons the 2009 will be 1 of their top 2-3 vintages for this variety.

M3 Chardonnay 2000 – the cousins made their first Chardonnay in 1990 and this was the first vintage of the flagship M3 Chardonnay, named (like the vineyard) after owners Michael and Matthew Hill Smith and cousin Martin Shaw.  It marks a watershed in the evolution of Australian Chardonnay, with its decisive shift away from big, golden, ripe, heavily oaked wines towards a finer style from cooler regions.  But it also marks Shaw & Smith’s change in approach to winemaking which has involved pre-chilling hand harvested grapes, whole bunch pressing, controlled oxidation (which drops out phenols) and more wild ferment. Saying Martin’s wines have always been precise, Michael observed, as his cousin has been less controlling, the wines have become more expressive, especially the Chardonnay.

An outstanding vintage, fermented in 100% French oak.  Today, it’s attractive enough but tastes a little simple compared with later vintages we tasted that include Burgundian clonal material, some wild yeast and solids.  It shows white peach, marzipan/nutty hints, black butter and has a glycerol viscosity in the mouth – far from syrupy but not as fresh as the others – probably just as function of age.

M3 Chardonnay 2005 – another first, this time related to the screwcap closure, which Martin described as “the best move we ever made because the consistency is fabulous.”

This was a cool vintage and the approach to winemaking is more hands off (with solids  – cloudy juice straight from press – and some wild ferment).  With a  savoury, flinty nose and palate, the wine is less defined by its fruit, itself cooler in character, more golden delicious with some white peach and sweet oak to the finish.  Good concentration and balance with well structured and integrated acidity.

M3 Chardonnay 2006 – this vintage marks a shift away from the original I10V1 Californian clones with around 20% Dijon clones (95 & 76, planted in 2003), plus the wild ferment component has increased to c 40%.

Another cool year lends beautiful line – my favourite of the line up – a tight spine of acidity and classy oak lend great poise to its citrus and white peach palate.  Autolytic, savoury notes add complexity and, though long, tight, even austere, there is texture – a savoury persistence.  Excellent.

M3 Chardonnay 2008 – just about to be released, the vintage was less cool than 2006 but, with around 60% new Dijon clones and around 60% wild ferment, it promises more layers of complexity.  Initially creamy and nutty, there’s plenty of underpinning structure here.  Needs time to unfurl. RRP: £19.99, stockists include Oz Wines, Philglas & Swiggot, Noel Young Wines, Bennetts Fine Wines

Pinot Noir 2008 – this is the second release of the Pinot Noir and the first to be launched beyond the cellar door, even though the grapes were planted in 2000. Before 2007, the Pinot Noir was sold off for sparkling base wines as the cousins patiently waited for the vines to produce wines of greater concentration with vine maturity.  Michael explained that they are chasing “Central Otago opulence with the structure of Burgundy…juicy fruit with tannin structure.” RRP: £21.99, stockists Australian Wines Online, Noel Young Wines

Apparently, the 2007 was very pretty and juicy but not terribly complex. The 2008 would appear to be a step up and suggested to me a real feel for this sensual variety.  Ruby bright with a lovely lifted nose, pretty well-defined red cherry and berry fruit underscored by baby beetroot and subtle firm, fine tannins.  Promising balance and potential.

Shiraz 2002 –  though far from convinced that the world needed another Shiraz, the change of heart came when Shaw and Smith made a Shiraz for a grower.  It demonstrated the potential for a modern style of Australian Shiraz, with lovely primary fruit and a round texture.  This was the first Shiraz, from a cool vintage.  More developed than the others but still good colour/opacity. An attractive nose shows bacon fat and black pepper though the palate is a bit green and didn’t hold together as well as I would expected over the course of the tasting.

Shiraz 2005 – a coolish, good vintage and a step up.  A deep colour, with juicy, well-defined black and red berry fruits and plum with chocolate hints.  Good freshness here with ripe but firm, sinewy tannins.

Shiraz 2006 - the first to go under screwcap, this is from the coolest vintage on record – a frayed nerves vintage in which the cousins were concerned about getting ripeness.  In fact the wine was declared James Halliday’s Top 100 Shiraz and awarded a gold medal by Decanter.

It shows lifted white pepper and a quite fleshy, open knit palate with a savoury, developed edge to its crushed raspberry fruit.  Chocolate, liquorice and dried spice come through on the long, vinous finish.  Firm but ripe supporting tannins suggest it will go some distance.  A seductive wine.

Shiraz 2007 – a much warmer vintage, less white pepper, more meaty, ground black pepper on the nose.  In the mouth there’s greater heft with muscular tannins, firm flesh – red and black fruits and, as you swirl, lifted white pepper notes emerge on a long finish.  Very well structured and complete with great fruit purity; youthful but tons of potential – my wine of the flight (with strong competition from the 2006). RRP: £18.99 and currently on deal at Majestic (fine wine) – £19.99 or £17.99 when you buy 2 and, in case you didn’t know, Majestic now sell by the 6-pack – you don’t have to buy a case of 12 bottles.  Also at Australian Wines Online, Bennetts Fine Wines, Corks Out, Philglas & Swiggot, Halifax Wine Co, Noel Young Wines

Incidentally, the 06 & 07 Shiraz were both a terrific match with stir fried fish fillets in black pepper – a testament to the elegance, spice and lift of these thoroughly modern, sophisticated wines.

Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
9 September 2009