You can take the man out of the Rhône, but you can’t take the Rhône out of the man based on this tasting of no less than four different Australian Shiraz in which Michel Chapoutier has a hand.
Domaine Tournon Shiraz 2006 (Mount Benson) – Mount Benson is a little known GI on the Limestone Coast’s southerly tip of which Chapoutier owns 50 hectares, cultivated organically. Though it shares the red loams of its more famous neighbour, Coonawarra, the subsoil here comprises red sandstone not limestone. A fresh nose shows well defined red and blackberry fruit with spicy hints. In the mouth stylistically it’s quite fleshy and elegant with with slightly woody tannins and spicy green and black peppercorn notes keeping the ripe fruit in check. The oak (it spends up to 18 months in French oak barriques, tops 20% new) is well integrated and its 15% abv worn very well. An interesting Aussie Shiraz. £13.99 at Portland Wine
Domaine Tournon “Shiraz or Syrah” 2008 (Western Victoria) – another unoaked wine. Here the fruit is distinctly red, in fact very raspberry with an attractive earthiness, even a herbal edge, like raspberries served with mint or is it woody, like raspberry seeds? So you see why I say very raspberry and as with the berry, it’s all about balance – the right amount of fruit versus seed & acidity. The tannins are just the right side of pithy, giving some nice grip. Very good. 14.5% £14.49 at Oddbins.
Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier Shiraz-Viognier 2007 (Victoria) – this joint venture project between Chapoutier and Napa Valley winemaker Anthony Terlato has produced this unoaked blend of 95% Shiraz and 5% Viognier. The fruit is sourced from a range of soils- from red podzol to red sandy loams. On the nose it’s shows spicy, menthol notes (eucalyptus, dried sage?) which follow through on a lively yet soft, round palate with red and black fruits and subtle apricot tones. The menthol, spicy character really ups the interest factor here, giving savoury, lipsmacking depth and length. Very good. 14% abv £17.99 at Oddbins
Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier Lieu dit Malakoff Shiraz 2007 (Pyranees) – oh la la, quite funky on the nose and palate, this Shiraz is apparently planted on 19th century rootstocks. Textured, distinctly dry, elegant and sensual this puts me in mind of Cote Rotie. Lovely, perfumed and elegant, it’s long and persistent with delightful red cherry, pomegranate and blackcurrant fruit of lovely purity. Very digestible may sound like a doctor’s prescription but trust me, it’s digestible in a good way as in balanced, elegant and eminently food-friendly. It’s aged 10-12 months in French oak, I suspect mostly older oak. Excellent. £29.99 at Oddbins.
Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
(Wines tasted 10 June 2010)
