Not the usual picture (it’s the tasting room at London HQ), though I have visited Jacobs Creek Down Under twice. The first time, in 2004, wasn’t the most successful of visits. I was then a Fine Wine Manager at Oddbins flagship city store and my travel companions sommeliers/wine buyers at Michelin-starred restaurants. They just got the pitch wrong, sitting us down to watch a corporate video the thrust of which was Jacobs Creek are the biggest and best, before showing us verticals of Jacobs Creek Reserve. Over dinner we tasted some of the top regional wines in relatively short order, of which Steingarten Riesling stayed etched on my memory.
When I next visited in 2008 on a two week Riesling-focused trip, in contrast, the visit was a real highlight and, with vertical tastings across their Riesling range, a core strength, from top to bottom there wasn’t a duff note (see my report here). I reflected on this as I tasted this time around in London with UK Wine Development Director, Adrian Atkinson, because I was pleasantly surprised by the freshness and balance of pretty much the whole range – not just the Rieslings.
For Atkinson, Jacobs Creek has stayed true to the house style –as he puts it “we never went for a big bold style, we don’t release anything that doesn’t express the variety correctly – we’re looking for approachable but also elegant styles.” He reckons despite all the problems of deep discounting (today Orlando’s marketing spend is directed at image enhancing sponsorship deals not brand cheapening promotions), Orlando is “making better wines than we ever have” – a high note on which much respected Chief Winemaker Phil Laffer hands over the reins to Bernard Hickin. It helps that they use around 30% of their own fruit and have major holdings in Padthaway and Langhorne Creek, both temperate regions. And I must say, aside from the Rieslings, I thought the range includes some good buys in the Jacobs Creek Tempranillo 2008, Shiraz Cabernet 2007 and Jacobs Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2008.
The RRP for entry level so-called classic Jacobs Creek wines is £6.99, for Three Vines £7.49 and for the next release of Reserve wines (due for November release) £9.99. The price hike reflects a shift towards single region (as opposed to multi-region) wines which Atkinson believes has resulted in added personality across the Reserve range which, incidentally no longer features a rose.
Jacobs Creek Sparkling Blanc de Blancs NV – this maiden Blanc de Blancs is nicely done – fresh and zesty with a touch a honey to its lemon and lime fruit with a very delicate nuanced nutty lemon meringue pie quality on the finish. Music to Wine Development Director Adrian Atkinson’s ears who told me that Orlando have developed this wine following sensory analysis designed to gain a better understanding of the sparkling market, especially in Australia which revealed a preference for a fresher style. With earlier harvesting the aim is to meld peachier/melon notes from Riverland fruit with citrus flavours fromy Padathaway where Orlando has big holdings. At any rate, this 7-10m lees aged bottled fermented fizz wears its 15g of residual sugar well. RRP £10
Jacobs Creek Chardonnay Pinot Noir Brut Cuvee – with around 75% Chardonnay and 25% Pinot Noir, this is richer than the Blanc de Blancs with more overt bready autolytic notes with brighter melon and lemony fruit behind. Solid. £9.49
Jacob’s Creek Riesling 2009 – lemony with Barossa Valley’s pronounced powder puff character; a hint of coarseness on the finish but it’s a good by at £6.99.
Jacobs Creek Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2009 – I much preferred this to the straight Sauvignon (what’s new!) – it’s punchier in structure and flavour with more cut and thrust to its limey fruit and a hint of honey/lemon meringue pie to the finish.
Jacobs Creek Pinot Grigio Vintage 2009 – though it’s a bit short, it’s bang on the moeny in terms of varietal expression (juicy pear and pear skins) and maybe I’m being tough given the price point.
Jacobs Creek Semillon Chardonnay 2009 – not a combination that I’d generally go for but no denying that it’s got good fruit on the mid-palate – a melange of lemon, crunchy apple and peach. Atkinson says every year they taste 10 back vintages and apparently the wines last.
Jacobs Creek Chardonnay 2009 – the Riverland’s ripe peach is tempered by juicier mouthwatering melon flavours (the Langhorne Creek and Padthaway component). The oak (staves) is quite well integrated – the juiciness really carries the fruit through.
Jacobs Creek Three Vines Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Viognier 2009 – Atkinson explains the idea of Three Vines was to provide a bridge between the classic and reserve range and, through the third variety, to “add a bit of Mediterranean character.” Good aroma and stone fruit richness on nose and palate with a greengage and blackcurrant bud edge.
Jacobs Creek Reserve Riesling 2009 (Barossa) – a classic Barossa Valley nose with powder puff/sweetish talc. In the mouth it’s quite pear/quince-like, as well as lemony, with some textured pear skin; nice length and character.
Jacobs Creek Steingarten 2005 – around 50-55% of the grapes come from the Steingarten vineyard, the balance from vineyards at similar altitude and soil type further into the Eden Valley. Juicy limey with richer, sweeter lime marmalade on toast. Characterful and developing well, though still lots to give.
Jacobs Creek Three Vines Shiraz Grenache Sangiovese 2009 – a drier impression on the nose, confirmed on the palate. Nice balance and layer here with a savoury undertow, some texture and reasonable length. Good.
Jacobs Creek Tempranillo 2008 – plummy, expansive nose without tending to sweetness. Plenty of plush dark plum in the mouth wed to smooth tannins, juicy too. A really good, drinkable style.
Jacobs Creek Merlot 2009 – I’m not the biggest fan of Australian Merlot but this is well done, with spicy plum, fruitcake and blueberries. Good typicity.
Jacobs Creek Grenache Shiraz 2009 – an attractive umami, savoury quality keeps the sweet red cherry of the Grenache in check while preserving its delicate rose petal quality. Good.
Jacobs Creek Three Vines Shiraz Grenache Tempranillo 2009 – originally Three Vines red featured Cabernet not Grenache, but consumers found it too dry and hard on the mid palate. This is the first vintage featuring Grenache and it’s well done, balanced with no hard edged and a nice liquorice quality.
Jacobs Creek Shiraz Cabernet 2007 – a very well made wine at this price point, drier in style than most with juicy, dark berry fruit and well integrated cedary, savoury oak. A good buy.
Jacobs Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 – another stand out of the range with really good depth of flavour and typicity for £6.99. It shows well defined, juicy blackberry, currant and blueberry with bay leaf and cedar spice. Very good.
Jacobs Creek Reserve Barossa Shiraz 2007 - much care is taken to avoid dried fruit flavours. This is concentrated, ripe, dark and very savoury with plentiful liquorice and bay leaf spice. Good length too.
Wynham Estate George Wyndham Founders Reserve Shiraz 2006 (Langhorne Creek) – an inky, dark Shiraz, with a viscous/round treacle toffee glycerol edge on the palate and heady, velvety concentration of fruit. Not particularly complex but satisfying. £11
Jacobs Creek Johann Shiraz Cabernet 2004 (South Australia) – a blend of the best Shiraz and Cabernet this is a deep, inky colour and very tight on the nose and palate with mocha oak on the finish. Coonawarra Cabernet brings drive and a herbal note while the Shiraz adds a savoury quality, juice/flesh too. Good length. £35
Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
(Wines tasted 15 July 2010)
