I had a couple of hours to tackle 133 tables of wine so decided to focus on some favourites, also the eponymous wines from former Penfolds & Rosemount Chief Wine makers John Duval and Philip Shaw:
Plantagenet
Based in Western Australia’s Great Southern, one of Australia’s cooler climates, wines show an attractive freshness and balance – very worthwhile checking out this region’s wines – other producers whom I rate include Howard Park and Ferngrove.
Plantagenet Great Southern Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 – finely wrought palate (very cool Great Southern) of flavoursome, ripe cassis and blackcurrant fruit of good depth and purity. I showed the 2000 vintage last year and it had become a really mellow fellow with attractive cedary fruit and supple tannins.
Plantagenet Riesling 2004 – intensely fruity nose and palate with fleshy grapefruit and lime with a hint of bath salts.
Cullen
This, one of my favourite Aussie wineries, produces exceptionally classy wines in Margaret River and, perhaps no coincidence, works biodynamically like Thierry Germain. Winemaker Vanya Cullen says the biodynamic wines show better balance and brightness of fruit.
Cullen Ellen Bussell White 2004 – this entry level blend of 45% Sauvignon Blanc, 45% Semillon and 10% Chardonnay shows its Cullen pedigree with its restraint, balance and freshness – very well done with leesy/tangy and lively orchard and citrus fruits.
Cullen Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2004 – the classic Margaret River style is fruity and fresh but at Cullen, texture and complexity count for as much as the fruit which, for this reason, is harvested at different levels of ripeness. Partial (18%) fermentation in French oak with wild yeasts adds depth and length of flavour to its racy, juicy lemon and grapefruit, also a tangy quality. The finish is long and minerally, with a twist of lime in the tail.
? Cullen Chardonnay 2003 – I showed the exceptionally low-yielding Chardonnay from the cooler 2002 vintage at my Top Aus tasting last year. The warmer 2003 vintage is much more expressive on nose and palate than its tightly wound predecessor, showing flavoursome yet fine tangerine, golden delicious and pear fruit with a wild, almost savoury note. The long finish is a touch mineral, well-balanced and fresh.
Cullen Ellen Bussell Red 2003 – the baby red is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 41% Merlot and 9% Cabernet Franc and shows good depth of very ripe, but juicy, red and black fruits. Good.
? Cullen Mangan 2004 – this the first biodynamic vintage from the excellent 2004 vintage is made from 60% Malbec and 40% Petit Verdot aged in French barriques for 7 months (27% new). Finely honed, fresh and perfumed it shows a lovely concentration of succulent black cherry fruit with dark chocolate. Very good.
Cullen Diana Madeline Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2002 – in this cooler vintage it shows a touch of Bordeaux’esque herbaceousness on the nose and its very well-balanced palate, lending a freshness to the chocolate-edged blackcurrant and mulberry fruit. A poised wine of great definition and lovely fine tannins. Excellent.
Shaw & Smith
The Adelaide Hills is a great source of cooler climate styles from Australia – well-known for its Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnays, it is fast establishing a reputation for its Shiraz which has more than a nod to the Rhône Valley:
Shaw & Smith Sauvignon Blanc 2005 – a very even ripening period produces a greater depth of tropical fruit (passionfruit) this year – lively, pure, fresh and long.
Shaw & Smith Unoaked Chardonnay 2004 – very chalky, fine and citrussy with delightful freshness. Very good.
Shaw & Smith Shiraz 2004 – a sappy nose leads onto an elegant palate with grippy, savoury tannins; liberal twists of black pepper augment its red berry and plum fruit. Very good.
Clonakilla
Based in Canberra, Tim Kirk focuses on authentically Rhônesque wines of great intensity, perfume and vigour.
Clonakilla Hilltops Shiraz 2004 – the shiraz has been fermented on viognier skins which account for the floral nose; grippy, sappy engagingly lively and pure black and red fruits wed to supple tannins. Very good.
Clonakilla Shiraz/Viognier 2004 – a tighter nose concedes floral and black pepper hints; the palate is then surprisingly exotic, its red fruits cut with blood orange and lychee. Very well-balanced, very good.
Tamar Ridge
I’m a big fan of this Tasmanian winery whose output is already very accomplished given the youth of their vines – very much one to watch:
Tamar Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2005 – fresh, nettley with gooseberry and racy acidity – very good.
Tamar Ridge Riesling 2004 – whistle clean, racy style; great length of floral and citrus flavours carried by a steely acidity.
Tamar Ridge Pinot Gris 2004 – a touch of barrel ferment adds spice and depth to fresh cut pear and smoky apricot fruit which is balanced by refreshingly zest acidity.
Tamar Ridge Devils Corner Pinot Noir 2004 – very good value Pinot Noir in this cool year showing raw beetroot and violets over delicate red berry fruits.
Tamar Ridge Pinot Noir 2003 – greater depth of fruit with some beetroot and sous bois hints; very good varietal character.
Stella Bella
A range of interesting wines from Margaret River though I made a bee-line for their excellent Sem/Sauv blends.
Stella Bella Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2005 – exceptionally zesty, lean and mean shot of pure and fresh citrus with a herbaceous edge and lick of coriander seed – a perfect match for oysters.
Suckfizzle Sauvignon/Semillon 2003 – I’m a huge fan of this super-serious barrel fermented and aged style. I have some 2002 stashed away and, in this cool vintage, I won’t be broaching it for some time (at least that’s the theory!) The 2003, on the other hand, while tightly focused, is already much more expressive. Rich in smoke infused lemon and lime curd with fresh coriander, artichoke and lanolin hints it’s a terrific complex, food-friendly wine.
John Duval Wines
The former Penfolds’ supremo is now making his own wines in Barossa:
John Duval Plexus 2004 – with only a touch of new French oak this shows great purity of spicy, chocolate-edged plum and mulberry fruit. Rich and satisfying.
John Duval Entity Barossa Shiraz 2004 - very rich, smooth, glossy wine with a great depth of chocolatey plum, blackberry and mulberry fruit.
Philip Shaw Wines
For his own wines, Philip Shaw has settled down in Orange in New South Wales which is fast developing a reputation for cooler climate, fine wines thanks to its altitude. Vineyards in Orange are situated at 600m above sea level plus and the whites showed good aroma, structure and balance. The 2004 reds (a Merlot Cabernet/Cabernet Franc and Shiraz/Viognier) were quite closed at this stage, but I ‘m looking forward to tasting them again when they’ve opened up a little and expect they will be equally well structured and balanced).
Philip Shaw Sauvignon Blanc 2005 – aromatic but restrained style with gooseberry and herbaceous notes on nose and palate allied to a firm backbone of acidity. Promising.
Philip Shaw Chardonnay 2004 – very good, tightly structured, textured style with cashew and fig, nicely integrated oak and a seam of fine acidity.
Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
January 2006
