Australia Day tastings 2005

A great opportunity to check out some of the wines I’m putting on the Re-discovering Australia tasting on 30 March – it’s going to be a good ‘un.

De Bortoli Chardonnay 2003 – the Yarra Valley makes some terrific chardys and this is one of my favourite examples.  Rich with fig and ripe peach, yet beautifully balanced with well-integrated spicy, toasty oak.  Winemaker Steve Webber also makes wine in Burgundy and it shows in this wine and his pinot noirs.

De Bortoli Shiraz 2002 – wild red fruits and plum with freshly ground black pepper; the sweetness of the ripe fruit really comes through on the finish – very gluggable!

De Bortoli Shiraz/Viognier 2003 – 7% viognier lifts the shiraz and gives a heady opulence – its plum flavours are shot through with lychee and orange peel balanced by savoury black pepper and cob nut notes – 30/3/05 Aussie tasting choice

Cullen Chardonnay 2002 –outstanding concentration, freshness and focus reflect super-low yields and a cooler vintage.  A natural yeast ferment imparts a tangy, wild edge and plenty of character – 30/3/05 Aussie tasting choice

Cullen Madeline Cabernet/Sauvignon/Merlot 2002
– extremely supple with fleshy plum and mulberry fruit, subtle spice and chocolate notes and the merest hint of cigar supported by those classic Cullen fine-grained tannins.  Accomplished and gloriously understated.

Shaw & Smith Sauvignon Blanc 2004 –
as minerally and tight as Aussie sauvignon comes.

Shaw & Smith Unoaked Chardonnay 2004
- white stone fruits, minerals, leesy notes, fine acidity and a very long, persistent finish.

Shaw & Smith M3 Vineyard Chardonnay 2003
– caramel edged stone fruits are held in check by a thread of citrus and a tight, minerally core.  Very good.

Shaw & Smith Merlot 2002
- finely structured with fragrant blueberries and spicy fruitcake and a classy whiff of cigar 30/3/05 Aussie tasting choice

Shaw & Smith Shiraz 2003 – spicy black pepper, fresh red and black fruits, nice tannic grip – very Rhonesque.

Devils Corner Chardonnay 2003
-  without the veneer of oak you need pristine fruit in an unwooded style to like this – tangy, zesty fruit with a refreshing (unacidified) finish.

Tamar Ridge Chardonnay 2002
– this is a peach of a chardy – fleshy, yet fresh with beguiling crème caramel and toast notes on the finish – 100% pleasurable.

Tamar Ridge Pinot Noir 2002 – : this drought vintage produced plush red and black fruits with supple tannins, good acidity and well integrated, spicy oak – 30/3/05 Aussie tasting choice

Tamar Ridge Pinot Noir 2003 -  svelter than the 2002, its terrific fruit purity accentuated by bright acidity; ripe but present tannins and some leafier notes – excellent good varietal character – 30/3/05 Aussie tasting choice.

Katnook Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
-  spicy, curranty nose with cassis and bay leaf; very refined and well-structured palate with ripe but measured fruit and a burnish of classy, cedary French oak. (Available in Oddbins Fine Wine for c£12.50 – a terrific buy).

Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
January 2005