Sarah Ahmed – The Wine Detective

I spent yesterday immersed in Cape wine, not literally of course, but almost!  First tasting (2010 releases), then a seminar (South Africa – a decade on), finally a winemaker dinner in honour of Lynne Sherriff MW, one of the first two South Africans to become a Master of Wine in 1993, who was recently appointed Chairman of the Institute of Masters of Wine.

South Africa continues to excite me.  Several times, the opening speech of then Minister of Agriculture, Thoko Didiza at the Cape Wine Diversity Conference in 2006 sprang to mind.   Didiza implored the audience to “forgive us when we stumble, but say this toddler has really grown when we make progress.” Speaking at the seminar, Jo Wehring, Head of Wines of South Africa’s UK Office, reported how exports have tripled in the last 10 years but, on the 10th anniversary of this generic wine marketing body, invited a distinguished panel of winemakers to reflect on what the future holds. 

South Africa a decade on

For Cathy Jordan, the trend of focusing on vineyards and matching soils and climate to the best varieties (exemplified by Jordan’s Chardonnays, especially the single vineyard Nine Yards Chardonnay) will continue to reap rewards.  She feels tourism  – the Cape’s wine routes, cellar doors and restaurants – will play a key role in South Africa’s ongoing success.  I couldn’t agree more.  The Cape Winelands jaw-droppingly beautiful mountains and coastline don’t just hold the key to its stellar wines.  They are beautiful places to visit in their own right.

According to Adi Badenhorst, South Africans have “learned we’re not New World.”  Badenhorst showed three wines to illustrate the point, the second and third, both made by him.  The sinewy, characterful Welgemeend Estate Reserve Cabernet 2001 represented the 80s and 90s when producers were influenced by Bordeaux and European palates.  The noughties, typified by the Rustenberg Peter Barlow Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, were an era of “exuberance and ripeness,” for Badenhorst, a consequence of his generation’s overseas experience.  “We were charmed by the ripeness of Australia and California, the new cellars, the fancy equipment and polished wines…we thought it was what the world expected from us.”   Today, he says, winemaking has come back a full circle, to the more refined, elegant style of AA Badenhorst Family Wines Red, wines that are made in the vineyard. 

For Peter Finalyson, it’s time to celebrate diversity. Looking backwards, he referred to the profound shift in the industry’s balance of power away from three players 35 years ago to the plethora of boutique wineries who now characterise the Cape wine scene.  The number of producers has tripled in the last year alone, with growth concentrated in cooler climate areas capable of taking South Africa in new directions.   Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir have been successful but, looking to the future, Finlayson queried why not Italian grapes as opposed to a predominance of French grapes?  Bouchard Finlayson Hannibal 2001, a blend of Sangiovese, Pinot Noir, Mourvedre, Nebbiolo and Barbera, proved a compelling case in point. 

Speaking last, Kevin Arnold of Waterford shared his opinion that Nelson Mandela’s release had freed South Africans to realise what was locked up inside them.  The wines of the 70s, 80s and early 90s were not as clean as they should have been. The future holds so much more promise. 

Seven 

There was lots to impress yesterday, but here’s just seven wines which capture the spirit of the nation, its progress.

The Foundry Grenache Blanc 2010 – only the second vintage from vines planted in 2001 in the Voor-Paadeberg, it’s bright, fresh, limpid and textured.  

Sauvignon.com – made by Thys Loouw of Diemersdal and Sir Lambert fame, this Sauvignon afficionado’s ambition knows no bounds!  I applaud his bagging of the domaine name and the wine is typical Loouw – powerful, but well balanced, its vibrant fruit cut with juicy, mouthwatering acidity.   Lots of bang for buck at £7.99

Miles Mossop Max 20067 - this perfumed, cedary, elegant Cabernet blend is a great example of Stellensboch’s strength with Bordeaux blends; back to the future winemaking at its best.

Raats Cabernet Franc 2008 – floral, lifted and persistent as I’d expect from Loire lover Bruwer Raats, but this vintage has a lovely savoury texture too.   

AA Badenhorst Family Wines Red 2007 – earlier picked in this vintage, this floral Swartland blend of Shiraz, Mourvedre, Cinsaut and Grenache really flies it’s so lifted or, as Badenhorst puts it “nervous.” 

De Toren Fusion V 2007 - at de Toren from the outset in 1998, winemaker Albie Koch has avoided the temptation to sprinkle his stardust elsewhere.  De Toren’s focused Cabernet dominated range bears all the hallmarks of his commitment.  Koch understands how to capture the vineyard and varieties.  Elegant, refined wines.

Bosman Family Vineyards Appollis 2009 – this blend of Shiraz, Cinsault and Mourvedre is a cracker at £7.99 and it’s Fairtrade certified to boot.