Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc are long established grape varieties in the Loire with profiles to match. In South Africa, Sauvignon is a very “johnny come lately variety”, while Chenin Blanc’s history in the Cape dates back to the 16th century. So how did the Cape wines fair against a couple of Loire examples?
Jacques Rouzé Les Grandes Vignes de Villalin Quincy 2009 – a real savoury, leesy almost earthy quality to the nose with underlying grapefruit which notes follow through on the palate. It shows good body and texture in the mouth, with mouthwatering gooseberry and steely grapefruit,that savoury leesy tang and a gun flint minerality; good acidity makes for a long, flavoursome finish. Very good. £125.30/12 bottles at Haynes Hanson & Clark (see here for my comments on their summer Loire offer)
Flagstone Free Run Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (Elim) – a lifted, smoky, methoxpyrazene (green/herbaceous) nose and palate – very Elim (see my report of a visit here) and, as with the Rouzé, it makes for a more interesting wine. The fruit is a little sweeter and there’s a sweet talc/hashish edge, lemon as well as grapefruit. Some leesy texture too. Not as powerful as the Rouzé, but impressive. £9.99 at Tesco (or £7.50 with their current 25% off deal) and £9.99 at South African Wines Online.
Alexandre Monmousseau Ammonite Vouvray Sec 2009 – pure nose with an incipient honey hint to its quince and apple fruit. The honey is more pronounced in the mouth, giving a sweet edge to the quince and tangy coxes orange pippens palate. A leesy finish is textured with well integrated, persistent grapefruity acidity. Well done. Would be a nice match for a favourite Rick Stein recipe – dover sole with cider and apple sauce. £106.30/12 bottles at Haynes Hanson & Clark
Groote Post Chenin Blanc 2009 (Coastal Region) – hmm some smoky, dust and tinned peas/vegetal notes on the nose, more Sauvignon than Chenin. In the mouth it’s got the waxier texture of Chenin, but the flavour spectrum, smoke/vegetal is more Sauvignon-like. Doesn’t work for me – I like to see the fruit in Cape Chenin – check out my recent report of some crackers here. £9.49 at South African Wines Online, £8.99 at Hennings Wine.
One nil to the Loire for the Chenin, but score draw for the Sauvignons – both very good and the Flagstone looking like sharp summer drinking at £7.50 on deal at Tesco!
June 29th, 2010 at 8:51 am
Hi Sarah
Been a while since you were manning the Chenin Blanc theme table and myself the Sauvignon Blanc table at LIWF, so it’s good to see you’re still flying the flag for Cape white wines. I think your contention regarding South African Sauvignon Blanc being a “johnny come lately” vs Chenin’s track record may be a bit misplaced. Yes, Chenin has been around for a long time (though certainly not the 16th century as you state). That said, Prof Abraham Perold in his “Treatise on Viticulture” (1927) states regarding Sauvignon Blanc: “At the Cape it also produces an excellent wine, but is unfortunately grown very little.” So maybe just a little bit too much artistic license on your side?
Regards and looking forward to tasting some more excellent Cape Sauvignon Blanc with you in the near future.
June 29th, 2010 at 9:04 am
Hi Pieter, great to hear from you and thanks for picking me up – had meant to say 17th not 16th century – had always understood Chenin arrived with Jan van Riebeeck. Didn’t know Sauvignon was recorded back in 1927 – thanks for that, though I think it’s fair to say it’s only in the last decade when plantings have really gained traction and only in the last several years that varietal and regional expression have enjoyed a quality hike with greater emphasis on cool climate areas. Until the next tasting!