Sarah Ahmed – The Wine Detective

The end of the year is an opportunity to reflect on which wines made the most lasting impression.  This week, find out which wines really captured my imagination for my areas of focus.  Yesterday revealed my Australian line up, today it’s the Loire’s turn. 

Below you’ll find my top five Loire wines of 2010 (in no particular order).  And what about yours? Why not post a comment with your top five?

Domaine de Bellivière Vieilles Vignes Éparses 2008 (Coteaux du Loir)

Jasnières & Coteaux du Loir are among the Loire’s most exciting appellations (see here), in no small measure, thanks to Eric and Christine Nicolas of Domaine de Bellivière (pictured), whose Chenin Blanc and Pineau d’Aunis are a shining beacon of quality.  Éparses is made from the fruit of 50-80 year old vines and we’re talking chiselled mineral territory.  This Chenin Blanc has sigh-inducing layers and length, fabulous structure and power. 

Domaine Philippe Gilbert Les Renardieres Blanc 2007 (Menetou-Salon) 

I’d not come across this ambitious Menetou Salon producer before but this old vine Sauvignon Blanc gives plenty of Sancerre and Pouilly Fume a good run for their money.  Though the oak is fairly pronounced on day one, beneath its oaky veneer, ripe peach and lemon oil, it’s fresh and mineral.  Next day that minerality really comes to the fore and the oak, while present, is a benign spicy, cedary presence. I really enjoyed drinking this on day two! 

Domaine de Pallus Pallus 2006 (Chinon)

Before returning home to his father’s estate, like many young Loire vignerons, Bertrand Sourdais has worked stints elsewhere.  Not just anywhere mind - Mouton Rothschild and Leoville Las Cases in Bordeaux, also Spain’s Alvaro Palacios and  Dominio de Atauta.   His tannin management is quite phenomenal, especially in this quite tricky vintage.  It shows a perfumed nose and palate, even though the fruit spectrum is dark and spicy with hints of ripe clove/star anise.    By day two, it’s revealing crushed raspberries, even a subtle hint of blueberry. And the tannins have become even more mellifluous, the stone-washed fruit pelucid, with subtle spice and leather hints.  I savoured every drop of this sensual wine and splashed out on a split case of this and junior wine, Les Pensees de Pallus 2007.

Domaine des Rochelles La Croix de la Mission 2008 (Anjou-Villages Brissac)

It can be hard enough to get Cabernet Franc ripe on Anjou’s predominantly schist soils so what hope for the later ripening Cabernet Sauvignon?   With the fair wind of a good vintage behind you and meticulous work in the vineyard, this flagship blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon/10% Cabernet Franc shows what can be done and how!  A subtle fresh stalky/bell pepper note to the nose with plenty of concentrated fruit lurking behind.  In the mouth, fine tannins are seamlessly integrated with fleshy plum, blackberry and currant fruit.  Long and well balanced with a lovely freshness.  Very good, with at least a decade of charming life ahead of it.

Domaine Ogereau Cuvee Prestige 1997  (Anjou Villages)

I make no apologies for selecting another Anjou red, this one Cabernet Franc-led.  It also demonstrates what the region can do in a ripe vintage and it’s been having rather more of those lately!  A region to watch and wow, this modestly-priced wine really delivered with gorgeous tertiary characters - enticing wafts of game, star anise and five spice to its ripe, plummy fruit on nose and palate.  The rewards of patience!  A corpulent, fleshy wine shot through with spice and underscored with minerals.  Lots to savour and still plenty of life to it.   70% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon – move over Bordeaux!