Sarah Ahmed – The Wine Detective

During September, I had a fantastic run of vertical tastings – De Bortoli Noble One, Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier, Shaw & Smith M3 Chardonnay and Shiraz.  As if things could not get any better, Noel Pinguet (pictured), Domaine Huet’s winemaker, arrived in town to show off no less than 10 different vintages of Huet’s Demi-sec Vouvray, starting with the latest releases from 2008, and finishing up with a 1949 le Haut Lieu.  Old World indeed!

You’ll find my report of the tasting here, together with Pinguet’s insights into some of the challenges posed by 2008 which included:

• a destructive deluge on 31 May (150mm of rain in 90 minutes – click here to see a youtube video taken at Huet);
• a virulent mildew attack in the wake of the storm; and, as if this was not enough
• an unstoppable, character-transforming, malolactic fermentation for Le Clos du Bourg Moelleux 1ère Trie 2008.

All the more reason to appreciate Huet’s 2008 Demi-secs, which have been rated Pinguet’s finest since 1971.  As you’ll see from my report, the ’71 remains a powerhouse but, for drinking now (or keeping if you must), I reckon there’s great pleasure to be had in the divine Le Mont 2002 and Le Haut Lieu 1962 Demi-secs.  A quick check on Wine Searcher reveals that the Le Mont 2002 is available at Planet of the Grapes and Waitrose at around £20/bottle – a steal!

I’m heading off to the Loire for the annual Salon (trade fair) at the beginning of February so watch this space for news of the much touted 2009 vintage…

All best

Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective