Sarah Ahmed – The Wine Detective

This time last year, I was in eager anticipation of my Riesling-focused trip to Australia (reported here).  As part of my “limbering up” process, I checked out what was happening in, on the face of it, a climate/country better-suited to Riesling – New Zealand.  With one notable exception, Framingham, I was (and have been) generally disappointed by Kiwi Rieslings.

Yesterday, I had the chance to spend time with Framingham’s winemaker, Dr Andrew Hedley.  Great tasting, great chat.  Hedley and his wines talk and walk the Riesling line.  These are Rieslings after my own heart – balanced, fine and focused as opposed to the sweet and sour, non-linear style which I’ve more typically encountered from the land of the long white cloud.  Stylistically, they’re closer to Germany than Australia – New Zealand’s more botrytis-prone climate lending itself well to sweeter styles.

In my report here, you can find out how Hedley is using Old World techniques  – wild yeasts, solids and old oak barrels – to differentiate Framingham even more from mainstream Marlborough.  To very exciting effect.

Afterwards, I headed off to one of the many 2008 Burgundy tastings which dominate the calendar at the moment.  Tasted some great William Fèvre Chablis, the Riesling of Burgundy of course!  Unlike the rest of Burgundy, Chablis, its northern-most outpost, escaped the ravages of mildew, botrytis and oidium in 2008.  The wines showed great concentration and clarity – these were my favourites:

William Fèvre Chablis Vaulorent 1er Cru 2008 – tightly structured with apple, quince and notable oak lending poise, without detracting from its gin & tonic vibrancy.  Lovely savoury length and persistence.

William Fèvre Chablis Bougros Cote Bougerots Grand Cru 2008 – a real clay tang to this – a quality I love to find in Burgundy.  Very powerful, with plenty of mid-palate oomph as well as length.

William Fèvre Chablis Preuses Grand Cru 2008 – very precise, citrus-led style with ripe lime zest as well as lemon.  Green applely and lemony acidity make for a very long, persistent finish.

All best

Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective