Sarah Ahmed – The Wine Detective

Just back from three days presenting Portuguese wines, followed by lunch at our rather tasty venues: Winchester (Hotel du Vin), Bath (The Bath Priory Hotel) and Ludlow (Fishmore Hall).

I’m bursting at the seams!  But also bursting to share with you some terrific food and wine matches, including classic puds to enjoy with Madeira – here goes:

The starter wines

Casa de Mouraz Branco 2008, DOC Dao – fresh and unoaked, this organic blend of Encruzado, Malvasia Fina, Bical and Cerceal-Branco is less about fruit, more about texture and minerality.

Esporao Reserva Branco 2008, DOC Alentejo – a richly fruity, honeyed, citrus blend of Antao Vaz, Arinto and Roupeiro with nicely judged oak.

The starters

Hotel du Vin – Uig Lodge smoked salmon, buckwheat blini and fromage blanc

Both our lunch whites worked brilliantly with this dish.  The Casa de Mouraz put the emphasis on the Atlantic freshness and minerality of this finely textured, distinctly unoily smoked salmon.  On the other hand, the Esporao worked really well with the smokiness.

The Bath Priory Hotel – Ravioli of Brixham crab in a lemongrass and ginger sauce

This was a delicate starter.  The Mouraz easily took top honours, accentuating the crab’s freshness and delicacy.  It also ran brilliantly with the ginger – a lift in the tail for both wine and dish!

Fishmore Hall – Free range chicken & foie gras terrine

A richer starter and, this time round, the Esporao wrested the top spot from the Mouraz.  Honeyed, rich and ripe palate it complimented the terrine perfectly.

The main course wines

Luis Pato Vinhas Velhas Tinto 2007, VR Beiras – a Baga in the mold of Pinot Noir, lifted, fresh and defined with crunchy red fruits.

Quinta dos Roques Tinto 2007, DOC Dao – this elegant blend of Touriga Nacional, Jaen, Alfrocheiro and Tinta Roriz shows black and red fruits with fruit spice (liquorice and clove).

The mains

Hotel du Vin – Duck leg confit, pomme rosti, blackcurrant jus

Both reds worked well with the duck, their freshness a foil to its richness.  With its darker fruit spectrum, the Roques had the edge with the jus.

The Bath Priory Hotel – Rump of lamb, aubergine puree, fondant potatoes and a tapenade jus

Again, the reds cut through the richness of this pink and tender lamb, the Baga bringing out its delicacy, while the Roques accentuated its gaminess.

Fishmore Hall – Crisp duck breast, braised chicory, fondant potato, sweet wine jus

The wines had already proved their credentials with duck and both reds worked well, though the Roques had the edge, balancing the sweetness of the jus.

The dessert wine

Blandy’s Harvest Malmsey 2001, Madeira – this rich but balanced sweet Madeira showed generous caramel and vanilla-edged dried fruits and spice.

The desserts

Hotel du Vin – Sticky toffee pudding, vanilla ice cream

A cracking match, the Madeira’s dark brown sugar and dried fruit notes complimented the pud, while its balancing freshness gave you the courage and strength to clean the plate!

The Bath Priory Hotel – Crème brulee with caramelised pears and butterscotch sauce

A little rich and dark for the brulee, but the Blandy’s spice and caramel teamed beautifully with the pears.

Fishmore Hall – Apple tarte tatin with vanilla ice cream

Another great match, caramelised meets caramelised, vanilla, sugar and spice and all things nice!  Yum.

Hungry?  You can find out about UK stockists of Portuguese wines at viniportugal.co.uk.

All best

Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective